MIDNIGHT FEASTS 



-'. 




««On the table spread the cloth, 

Let the knives be sharp and clean ; 

Pickles get, and salad both, 

Let them each be fresh and green. 

Bring the cheese, and grate it fine, 
O ye gods ! how I shall dine!" 



MIDNIGHT 
FEASTS 

TWO HUNDRED 

8f TWO SALADS AND 

CHAFING-DISH 

RECIPES 



BY 

MAY E. SOUTHWORTH 




PAUL ELDER & COMPANY 

PUBLISHERS 

SAN FRANCISCO 






h Paul Elder and Company 
San Francisco 




* J -3 1914 

G&.A374990 



MIDNIGHT 
FEASTS 

Up and down the line, from youth 
to old age, there are none but seem 
to be eager for light on culinary sub- 
jects. As it is evidently such a source 
of -perennial interest to all, naturally 
many of us feel that we may have a 
message of special service— that might 
possibly be considered the li best ever" 
-to promote information along these 
lines. 

There are few social relaxations 
that are pleasanter than midnight 
suppers, and they have always had a 
certain secret fascination, as of for- 
bidden temptations. With those who 
are fond of fun, laughter and a good 
deal of nonsense, and especially with 
those whose digestions are in good 
working order, there is nothing so 
popular. 

There was a time, in benighted 
ages, when it was considered the 
height of indiscretion to eat late at 
night, but in these advanced times, 
old-fashioned theories are gradually 
passing, and in eliminating one stupid- 
ity after another, we have come to 
consider suppers at night, after a 
sociable evening of any kind, both 
wholesome and beneficial. If we are 
hungry we are unhappy, and accord- 
ing to the most sensible philosophy, 
why should we go to bed unhappy, 
when alleviation lies right at hand, 
in our pantry? 

hi 



Midnight Feasts 

To the college boy and the college 
girl, these late repasts are the very 
soul of their good fellowship, and not 
only do they lavish here the very 
best of their friendship, but the very 
best of their wit and brains. In fact, 
if the truth were known, all up-to- 
date people like these little " lay outs" 
and indulge in them night after night, 
not only with the keenest relish and 
appetite, but with no after doleful 
repentance. 

We hear the cry all over the 
land, that people are no longer doing 
as their forefathers did, and progress 
and cookery are bound to go hand in 
hand. Still there are always the con- 
ventional ones, and the doubting ones, 
and to these there is the assurance 
that many of the new ideas contained 
in this little book are really old ones, 
dressed in modern taste, and all are 
unusually good and sure to bring 
forth, even from the most skeptical, 
delicious thrills and ecstasies of de- 
light. 

To blend a salad is a work of art 
and the highest perfection lies in sim- 
plicity. The creative qualities re- 
quired in this kind of culinary effort 
are peculiar, and have a standard of 
their own. It really requires a per- 
son of ideas to concoct a perfect salad, 
so much depends on the blending and 
the seasoning— not as to salt and pep- 
per alone, but in the delicate flavor 
it is possible to impart by a judicious 
combination of relishes. A subtle 

IV 



Midnight Feasts 

sense in this difficult mixing, with no 
guessing as to the result, glorifies the 
most commonplace materials. 

The blue flame and copper kettle 
are most popular wherever informal- 
ity and sociability reign. The chafing- 
dish is such a dependable little asset 
in all sorts of entertaining that its 
lure is felt by everyone. Boys and 
even men, real manly men, find in it 
genuine sport, if they only have the 
nerve to acknowledge it, and to open- 
ly avail themselves of its fascination. 

All the attractive hot dishes this 
little book contains, can be cooked in 
the cosy little chafing-dish. There 
are some that are simplified from old- 
time methods of scientific cookery, or 
as it might be called "scientific drudg- 
ery" that can now, according to 
"Midnight Feasts" be prepared 
with little trouble and comparative- 
ly small expense. The creed of every- 
one in selecting from these good 
things combinations for their spreads, 
should be to choose two things that 
harmonize from a gastronomic stand- 
point. This will require a little pre- 
liminary planning, but the success and 
attractiveness of your feasts depend 
on making things balance in this way. 
With a hearty chafing-dish concoc- 
tion use a simple salad, and vice 
versa, and in that way, with such a 
wealth of material to select from, 
even those with real appetites will 
be satisfied. 



Midnight Feasts 

A few suggested combinations: 
Curry of eggs— Lor a salad— 

Wafers. 
Bath chops— Dainty salad— Hot 

deviled crackers. 
Breaded tongue— Army cups. 
Grilled sardines— Fisoli salad— 

Mexicano relish. 
Oysters {in any way)- Piquant e 

salad- Browned crackers 

buttered. 
Cosmos Club shrimps— Oliver 

Twist salad-Whole wheat 

sandwiches. 

M. E. S 



VI 



S A 

FISH 


L 


ADS 

Page 


Astoria 




• 3 


Baltimore 


. 


3 


Barataria 




. 4 


Boheme . 


. 


4 


Devonshire . 




. 4 


En Regie 
Fisherman . 


• 


5 
. 6 


Haddon Hall 


. 


6 


Harlequin . 
Hochheimcr 




. 6 

7 


Hungarian . 
Newburg 




. 8 
8 


Nippon . 
Picnic 




. 9 
9 


Regis . . 
Remoulade 




, . . . io 
io 


Rhode Island 




. 11 


Richardson 


. 


. . iz 


Treboul 


• 


. 12 


EGG 






Bantam . 


. 


17 


Daisy 
CEufs Fracis 




. 17 
18 


Robert 




. 18 


MEAT 






Blingam . 
Johanathan . 
Mousse . 


• 


23 

. 23 

23 


Old Virginia 
Pieds de Cochon 


. 24 

25 


Polish 




. 25 


Russian . 


. 


26 


West Point . 




. 26 


VEGETABLE 






Army Cups 


. 


3' 



Boston 

Bourgeoise 

Chile . 

Christmas 

Club ". 

Columbia 

Country 

Creole . 

Dainty 

Decoy . 

Dixie 

Dublin . 

Dutchtown 

Finney . 

Fisoli . 

Friar 

Gaspacho 

Gibier 

Grotto 

Harron . 

Hermitage 

Italienne 

June . 

Lake County 

Logan 

Lone Star 

Lora . 

Mais 

Maryland 

Mexicano 

Mountain 

Nuget . 

Oliver Twist 

Piquante 

Pluche 

Portuguese 

Provencale 

Sing Lee 

Southern 



Spring . 
Sunflower 

FRUIT 

Alamo . 
Ambrosia 
Avocado 
Cardinal 
Cuban . 
English 
Epicure . 
Felix . 
Fraternity 
Gooche 
Havana . 
Imperatrice 
Macedone 
Melon d'Eau 
Mum 

Palace Grill . 
Reneau . 
Roederer 
Roy ale . 
Vienna 

CHEESE 
En Coquille 
Filley 
Gervaise 
Gringo . 
Marguerite 
Milanaise . 
Plover . 
Walnut Cream 



Page 

5 2 

• 52 

55 

• 55 
55 

• 56 
56 

• 57 
57 

• 57 
58 

. 58 
58 

• 59 

59 
. 60 

61 
. 61 

62 
. 0/ 

62 
. 63 

67 

• 67 
. 68 

68 
68 

. 69 
69 

. 7c 



CHAFING-DISHES 



OYSTERS 


PAGE 


Aunt Dinah 


• 79 


Batter Loaf 


79 


Bundles 


• 79 


Cocktail 


8o 


En Cachette 


. 8o 


Figaro Omelet 


8o 


Gumbo Oysters . 


. 8i 


Oysters a la Poulette 


8i 


Panned Oysters 


. 82 


Pepper Stew . 


82 


Rarebit of Oysters 


. 82 


Steamed Oysters . . 


83 


University Grill . 


. 83 


MUSHROOMS 




Bombay Cepes 


87 


Champignons 


. 87 


Golden West . 


87 


Roasted Mushrooms 


. 88 


West Indian . 


88 


FISH 




Bouillabaisse 


. 91 


Cosmos Club Shrimps 


91 


Crabs with Mushrooms . 


• 9' 


Delmonico Lobster . 


92 


Dunbar Shrimps . 


. 92 


Fricasseed Lobster 


92 


Frogs a la Poulette 


• 93 


Grenouille 


93 


Grilled Sardines . 


• 93 


Halibut Rarebit 


94 


Japanese Shrimps . 


• 94 


Lobster a la Newberg 


94 


Minced Clams 


. 95 


Piedmont Toast 


95 


Rex Crab . 


• . 96 



St. Lawrence Crab . 
Scalloped Lobster . 
Scotch Finnan Haddie 
Slmplicite . 
Stewed Shrimps 
Terrapin . 

MEAT 

Bath Chops . 
Bechamel Sweetbreads 
Brain Cutlets 
Breaded Tongue . 
Corned Beef Hash . 
Dublin Lawyer . 
Epigrams 
Fricandelles 
Frizzled Beef 
Hamburg Steaks . 
Kippered Kidney . 
La Touraine 
Luncheon Liver 
Madeira Gravy . 
Marengo 

Milwaukee Mutton 
New Orleans Sausage 
Rechauffe . 
Scrambled Sweetbreads 
Tenderloin Steak . 
Tripe Stewed 

FOWL AND GAME 
Boneless Chicken 
Canvasback . 
Creole Chicken . 
L'Indienne 
Lucknow Curry . 
Maryland Terrapin 
Metropole . 
Palermo Macaroni . 



page 
96 

■ 96 
97 
97 
97 
98 



101 
101 

IOI 

102 
102 
102 
103 
103 
104 
104 

105 

ic 5 

105 

106 
106 
106 

107 
107 
107 
108 
108 



1 1 1 
1 1 1 
1 1 1 
1 1 1 

I I 2 
I 12 

I'3 
113 



Quail 

Spring Chicken 
Turkey Hash 
Wild Ragout 

EGGS 

Bread Omelet . 

Connecticut Chowder 
Curried Eggs . . 

Gruyere Eggs 
Ham Omelet . 
Livingston Club 
Par Excellence 
Poached Eggs 
Ruby Royal . 
Rum Omelet 
Shirred Eggs . 
Spanish Omelet 
Stuffed Eggs . 
Tomato Omelet 



CHEESE 

Bread Souffle . 
Cheese Sandwich 
Fondue . 
Gherkin Juck 
Lyonnaise 
Oregon Cream 
Reliable Rarebit 
Roulettes 
Welsh Rarebit 



SWEET 

Canape . 
Deviled Almonds 
French Pancake 
Fudge . 
German Toast 
Orange Omelet 



OneHundred ^One 

SALADS 

FISH • EGG 

MEAT • VEGETABLE 

FRUIT • CHEESE 



&T MAYONNAISE <T 

PLACE in a shallow plate the 
yolk of one egg, and beat 
well with a silver fork. Add 
drop by drop, stirring constantly, 
about a half-pint of olive-oil. When 
it is thick and jelly-like cut with a 
tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon- 
juice and season with a saltspoon- 
ful of salt and pinch of cayenne. 
Have plate and all materials very 
cold. Should the egg curdle and 
obstinately refuse to thicken com- 
mence on another plate with a 
fresh yolk, and after it begins to 
thicken the curdled mayonnaise 
may be slowly added. 

FRENCH DRESSING 

ONE saltspoonful of salt and 
half a saltspoonful of pep- 
per, beaten with three table- 
spoonfuls of olive-oil; when thick 
and creamy, add slowly one table- 
spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice. 
This should never be mixed or put 
over the salad until the moment it 
is to be eaten. If liked, a tea- 
spoonful of scraped onion can be 
added. 

All lettuce and uncooked vege- 
tables should be very fresh, well 



washed, thoroughly dried and put 
aside in some cold place until they 
are perfectly crisp. Use only the 
best pure olive-oil. 



if if if 
if if 

if 



FISH 

jT jT ^ 



jT ASTORIA <T 

WRAP a small piece of sal- 
mon in a cloth and steam 
until tender. Pull the skin 
off while hot, press into shape and 
put on ice. Arrange the center 
hearts of lettuce on a platter, with 
cut slices of hard-boiled egg for a 
border. Place the salmon in the 
center, pouring on top a mayon- 
naise made green by mixing with 
it the juice of cold boiled spinach, 
pressed through a sieve. Over all 
sprinkle capers. 



<T BALTIMORE <T 

CHOOSE the small California 
oysters, so as not to cut 
them. Turn off the liquor, 
wash and drain, and to every cup- 
ful of these add a cupful of crisp 
white celery, cut into half-inch bits, 
and then split lengthwise. Mix 
these with mayonnaise dressing 
and put on the ice. When ready 
to use line the salad bowl with let- 
tuce leaves, put the salad on top, 
garnished with pitted olives cut in 
half, and serve with mayonnaise. 
? 



<T BARATARIA <T 

SHELL freshly boiled shrimps 
and put immediately on ice 
until ready to use. Then 
make a bed of the white crisp 
leaves of lettuce on a rather flat 
salad dish, lay the shrimps on top 
and cover with mayonnaise dress- 
ing. Serve with it lettuce sand- 
wiches. 

<r boheme ttr 

SCALD large oysters in their 
own liquor just long enough 
to make them plump; drain 
and put on the ice. When ready 
for use lay each one on an ice-cold 
lettuce leaf, and sprinkle with 
finely cut cooked mushrooms. Put 
a spoonful of mayonnaise on the 
leaf and one stuffed pimento. 
Grate a little cheese over thin 
water wafers, put in the oven, heat 
and send to the table with the 
salad. 

<T DEVONSHIRE *T 

BOIL fresh halibut for ten min- 
utes in salted water, drain, 
and flake. When ice cold 
lay on a bed of lettuce and garnish 

4 



with round slices of cold boiled 
potato and rings of lemon. Pour 
over it the following dressing: 
Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, 
put in a bowl and work smooth 
with one-half teaspoonful of salt 
and mustard each, add one cold 
boiled, mealy potato,mash smooth- 
ly, and by degrees two dessert- 
spoonfuls of cream, and two of oil 
(or four of oil). When all are 
well mixed put in one tablespoon- 
rul of vinegar. 

<T EN REGLE <T 

DISSOLVE a half-box of gela- 
tine in three tablespoonfuls 
of cold water; add the juice 
of two lemons, half-pint of boiling 
water and a pinch of salt. Strain 
and turn into a ring mold, scatter- 
ing a cupful of picked shrimps 
through it, and put on the ice. 
When firm the mold is held over 
boiling water for a moment to 
loosen it, and is then turned out 
on a bed of lettuce leaves, which 
are arranged on a round, flat plat- 
ter. The rest of the shrimps are 
piled in the middle with tiny heart 
leaves of the lettuce. Serve with 
rich mayonnaise and decorate with 
cut lemon. 



<T FISHERMAN tfT 

COOK fresh perch in boiling 
salted water until tender, 
drain and put on ice. When 
ready to serve flake the meat, and 
mix with shredded lettuce. Over 
the top place hard-boiled eggs cut 
in quarters and parsley cut fine. 
Serve with French dressing and 
lemons cut in quarters. 

<T HADDON HALL fjT 

BOIL shad roe in salted water, 
with a slice of onion, for fif- 
teen minutes; drain and pour 
over it a little vinegar and rub 
until the grains are separated. 
When ice cold mix with crisp 
shredded lettuce and French dress- 
ing and fill tomato shells. Serve 
on lettuce leaves, decorated with 
nasturtium leaves and blossoms, 
and more dressing. Make nastur- 
tium sandwiches to go with this. 

<T HARLEQUIN gT 

CLEAN, skin and stew frogs' 
legs until tender; take them 
out of the water and cook 
them in milk for a few minutes to 
whiten. Remove bone and put in 
6 



ice-box. When ready to serve use 
an equal amount of shredded tender 
lettuce, and a few leaves of water- 
cress; mix with mayonnaise and 
turn on a bed of lettuce, and gar- 
nish with little tufts of celery tips, 
alternating with lemon and hard- 
boiled eggs, quartered lengthwise. 

ffT HOCHHE1MER <T 

WASH, skin and bone salted 
anchovies, removing heads 
and tails; drain and dry 
them and shred with the fingers 
into tiny fillets. Cut a small crust 
of bread, sprinkle it with salt and 
rub with a clove of garlic and put 
it in the bottom of the salad bowl; 
fill with the crisp hearts of the let- 
tuce and pour on the oil in which 
the salt and pepper have been dis- 
solved, toss all up together until 
every leaf is thoroughly covered 
with oil and then squeeze on the 
juice of a lemon; remove the 
"chapon" (the crust) and put the 
anchovies on top, with slices of 
hard-boiled eggs and quarters of 
lemon. Serve with this brunetts, 
which are made of thin slices of 
brown bread spread with Neufchatel 
cheese, put together like sandwiches, 
trimmed and cut in squares. 
7 



<T HUNGARIAN <T 

TAKE small potatoes, boil and 
peel while warm; slice very 
' thin with a silver knife, and 
to a pint of potatoes, mince one 
small onion, one pickled beet, one 
fresh cucumber sliced, a Dutch 
herring, four sardines and a spoon- 
ful of minced cold boiled ham. 
Mix all together and put on ice. 
Serve on lettuce leaves, with French 
dressing, and garnish with walnut 
pickles. 

tr NEWBURG t/r 

REMOVE the meat of a lob- 
ster, reserving the creamy fat 
adhering to the body shell 
and the coral. Shred the lobster 
with a silver fork and cut the 
tender white part of celery into 
pieces the same size, allowing one- 
third as much as the amount of 
meat. Arrange the crisp, dry white 
lettuce leaves in the center of an 
oval platter, with the larger green 
on the outer edge, decorated with 
the claws. Mix the lobster meat 
and celery together with enough 
mayonnaise to moisten it, and heap 
in the center. The coral pound 
and pass through a sieve and mix 
8 



with the remaining mayonnaise. 

Pile this red dressing on top 

and put all on ice till ready to 
serve. 

<r Nippon ftr 

WASH shell-mussels clean, 
using a brush. Place them 
in a wire basket, and set in 
boiling water. When the shells 
open lift the basket, remove from 
the shells and drop them into hot 
melted butter, seasoned with salt, 
pepper and lemon-juice. Set on 
the ice, and when ready to serve 
mix with shredded lettuce and 
French dressing. With it serve 
thin buttered sandwiches of Boston 
brown bread. 

<r picnic *r 

PICK out the meat from a fresh, 
well-boiled crab, shred with 
the fingers and set on ice. 
Prepare a third as much celery as 
crab, by splitting and cutting in 
half-inch lengths, and put in ice- 
water. When ready to use arrange 
the lettuce in flat dish and on this 
lay the crab, and the celery wiped 
dry. Sprinkle a little cayenne and 
salt over this and serve with rich 
mayonnaise. 

9 



<r regis <r 

SELECT medium large toma- 
toes of uniform size, remove 
the skins and carefully cut a 
piece from the top large enough to 
scoop out center, which is filled 
with small shrimps or chopped 
large ones, mixed with the tarragon 
mayonnaise. For the mayonnaise 
wash the tarragon leaves and put 
in boiling salted water for ten min- 
utes, cool, squeeze dry and work 
through a sieve. Color the may- 
onnaise with this; or use the 
tarragon vinegar in mixing mayon- 
naise; or chop the tarragon leaves 
very fine and mix in the mayon- 
naise. 

<T REMOULADE <T 

PICK the shell from a fresh- 
boiled crawfish and have 
enough meat to make a cup- 
ful; to these add a half-cupful of 
cold cooked asparagus tips ; toss 
lightly together and season with 
salt and paprika and put on a bed 
of lettuce leaves. Pour over it a 
dressing made of the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs, rubbed smooth, 
with sufficient oil to make it like 
thick cream; thin with a little 
10 



lemon-juice and season with salt 
and white pepper. Garnish the 
dish with the white rings of the 
hard-boiled eggs, and have all icy 
cold. 

fir RHODE ISLAND f/T 

PLACE a half-pint of scallops 
in cold salt water for an hour, 
and then cook them for 
twenty-five minutes; drain, and 
marinate them by sprinkling over 
them one tablespoonful of vinegar, 
two of lemon-juice, and a pinch of 
salt; let them remain overnight 
on the ice. When ready to serve, 
make a mound of finely shredded 
cabbage, celery and green pepper, 
placing the cut scallops on top and 
decorating with pickled peppers 
and pimolas. Use a boiled cream 
mayonnaise, which is made by 
beating the yolks of three eggs 
lightly and adding one tablespoon- 
ful each of thick sweet cream, fresh 
butter and lemon-juice; one tea- 
spoonful each of sugar and made 
mustard, a little celery salt, salt 
and pepper. Put in a double 
boiler and stir constantly until it 
thickens. This dressing is gener- 
ally made the day before and kept 
on ice until needed. 
11 



*T RICHARDSON <T 

STONE ripe California olives 
to make a pint, and cut in 
half; to this add two pickles 
cut fine, and one cupful of small 
California oysters, washed and 
drained. Have a bed of lettuce 
leaves on rather a flat platter, with 
a square of ice in the center. Make 
a square hollow in the ice with a 
hot flat-iron, wipe dry and put the 
salad in this. Serve on lettuce 
leaves with mayonnaise, to which 
a spoonful of freshly grated horse- 
radish has been added. Pass with 
it pickle sandwiches. 



fT TREBOUL <T 

PUT a half-dozen eggs on in 
cold water and boil half an 
hour. Take from fire and 
put in cold water and let them 
remain until thoroughly cold. Re- 
move shells and cut each egg in 
half with a thread held taut. Re- 
move yolks, put in a bowl and rub 
to a cream; add one-quarter tea- 
spoonful dry mustard, dash of cay- 
enne, salt, a little lemon-juice and 
twelve sardines scraped fine, after 
removing skin and bone. Mix 
smooth and return this to the 

12 



empty halves of the eggs. Cover 
the bottom and sides of salad dish 
with crisp lettuce leaves and lay 
the half-eggs in circle on top, with 
mayonnaise in center. 



if if if 

if ff 



if 



H 



EGG 

IP ^ ^ 

if §r 



0T BANTAM <T 

CUT hard-boiled eggs in half; 
remove yolks and mash 
smooth ; add an equal bulk 
of canned deviled chicken or turkey 
and moisten with mayonnaise. 
Shape into balls and fill center of 
eggs again, and press together and 
put on ice until ready to serve. 
When ready lay the whole eggs in 
a circle on a nest of crisp lettuce 
leaves, with mayonnaise dressing 
heaped in the center; garnish wich 
capers and nasturtium leaves and 
blossoms. 



tr daisy <r 

TAKE the shells from hard- 
boiled eggs while hot and 
put them in warm beet-juice 
and water, and let stand until col- 
ored a delicate pink. Make a 
bed on each individual plate of 
small lettuce leaves by placing 
together the stem ends in the cen- 
ter. Cut the eggs in half, length- 
wise, remove the yolks whole and 
place each half in the center over 
the ends of the lettuce leaves; 
around this arrange the pink white 
of the egg, cut in narrow oval 
lengthwise strips to resemble the 
17 



petals of a flower. Put on ice, 
and just before serving pour over 
it a rich French dressing. Serve 
with this salad, Welsh sandwiches, 
which are made by rubbing together 
one part sweet butter and two parts 
mild soft cheese, flavored with tar- 
ragon vinegar, and putting between 
thin slices of bread. 

ftr CEUFS FRACIS $T 

COVER the eggs with cold 
water and let boil for half an 
hour; remove and douse in 
cold water until thoroughly chilled, 
then cut in half, lengthwise, and 
put yolks into bowl, with a large 
spoonful of butter, and mash 
smooth; add a few cracker-crumbs 
and one cold boiled French carrot, 
chopped fine; season to taste with 
lemon-juice, salt and paprika. Re- 
turn this mixture to the white shells 
and lay all in a nest of crisp lettuce 
leaves. Serve with this salad on 
each plate a small, thin slice of 
cold broiled ham. 

§T ROBERT <r 

BOIL eight eggs very hard, cut 
each in half, take out yolks, 
and mash to a cream. Add 
a piece of butter the size of an 
18 



egg, a half-teaspoonful each cayenne 
pepper and salt, one teaspoonful 
Worcestershire sauce, one table- 
spoonful of chopped parsley and 
five cents' worth of shrimps chop- 
ped fine. Mix well and fill the 
empty whites with this mixture. 
Select sixteen large, fine tomatoes, 
and after skinning, put them on 
ice to have as cold as possible. 
Hollow out center, and sink in 
each the half of a stuffed egg. 
Serve on lettuce leaves, arranged 
so that every two will be in round, 
cuplike shape, on which is placed 
a tomato. Serve with mayonnaise 
sauce, seasoned with two drops of 
onion-juice. 

*° #r jt 



? 



19 



MEAT 

if if if 

<T if 

if 



<T BLINGAM <T 

RUB each plate with garlic, and 
put on it one thin slice of 
cold boiled ham. Just be- 
fore serving, tear lettuce leaves 
into pieces and toss up in salad 
bowl with French dressing, and 
serve on the ham. 

<T JOHANATHAN §T 

PUT a pint of Lima beans into 
just enough boiling salted 
water to cover them, and boil 
slowly until tender. Drain off the 
water; add three medium-sized cold 
boiled potatoes, cut into thin slices, 
one stalk of celery chopped, one 
peeled uncooked sour apple sliced 
and a little cold boiled beef-tongue 
cut in wafers; mix with French 
dressing and put in the refrigerator. 
At serving time lay on crisp lettuce 
leaves and garnish with parsley and 
rings of hard-boiled eggs, having 
round pieces of red pickled beet cut 
and fitted into the center of each 
yolk, and pour over more dressing. 

tr mousse <r 

BOIL a chicken the day before 
needed and pick from the 
bone, strain a cupful of the 
stock and season with salt, white 
23 



pepper, celery salt, and one table- 
spoonful of sherry; put on the 
fire, and when hot stir in a cupful 
of the chopped chicken, and lastly 
the yolks of two eggs well beaten. 
Take instantly from the fire, and 
add one tablespoonful of gelatine, 
which has been dissolved in a little 
water. When cool put in a cupful 
of whipped cream and the whites 
of three eggs beaten stiff; beat all 
together with an egg-beater until 
nearly cold, and then put in a mold 
and set on the ice. When ready 
to use turn from the mold on a 
bed of lettuce leaves, and serve in 
slices, laying each on a lettuce leaf 
with a spoonful of mayonnaise 
dressing. 

<T OLD VIRGINIA <f 

RUB a young fowl with pep- 
per and salt, put an onion 
inside and steam until tender. 
When cold separate the meat from 
the bone and tear into tiny bits. 
To one cupful of chicken, allow 
one-half cupful of crisp white celery, 
cut into half-inch lengths and then 
into strips. Mix the chicken and 
celery together with a little may- 
onnaise. Heap this mixture in the 
center of the salad bowl, with the 
*4 



fresh white tops of the celery leaves 
arranged about the edge. Pour 
the remainder of the mayonnaise 
on top and put in the refrigerator 
until time to serve. 



PIEDS DE COCHON 

WASH and clean pigs' feet, 
place them in a kettle with 
two onions, two carrots, 
one celery stalk, sliced, some thyme 
and laurel, cover with cold water 
and allow to cook until tender, 
which will be about four hours. 
Let them remain in this water 
until cold, then remove and place 
on ice. When ready for salad, line 
dish with lettuce leaves, cut the 
pigs' feet into tiny bits and mix 
with chopped parsley and young 
onions, lay on the lettuce and pour 
over all a French dressing. 



<r polish <r 

CUT the meat from cold game 
and make into convenient 
bits; moisten with French 
dressing and put on the ice for 
several hours. When wanted make 
a bed of the long crisp leaves of 
Romaine lettuce on a flat dish, 



stem ends all in the center. Ar- 
range a chain-like pattern on the 
outer edge of the lettuce of the 
whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in 
rings, and pile the game in the 
center. Over the whole sprinkle 
the yolks, put through a vegetable 
press, and serve with French dress- 
ing. 

tfT RUSSIAN <T 

CUT cold roast beef into little 
dice about the size of a pea, 
and with it cut up fine, thin, 
crisp slices of cold broiled bacon; 
add a little chopped sweet Spanish 
pepper. Put the lettuce leaves on 
a platter and pile the mixed salad 
in the center, with cut pickles and 
olives on the edge. Serve with 
French dressing. 

tff WEST POINT *T 

BOIL an onion and stalk of 
celery for twenty minutes in 
one pint of tomatoes, strain 
and pour upon one-half box of gela- 
tine, which has been soaked one 
hour in one-half cupful of cold 
water; season with salt and cayenne, 
put in a mold, and on ice. When 
26 



cold and firm turn from the mold 
on a bed of lettuce leaves, making 
a hollow in the center of the jelly 
and filling it with chicken salad 
covered with mayonnaise. 

if if if 
if if 

if 



VEGETABLE 

if if if 
if if 



<T ARMY CUPS <T 

CUT the roots off the celery 
heads and boil until tender. 
Drain, take off rough outer 
stalks, and scoop out a little of the 
center with a sharp knife. Fill 
this cavity with a spoonful of cold 
boiled peas, drained perfectly dry, 
and place the cups on ice. When 
icy cold, and just before serving, 
cover the entire top of each with 
mayonnaise, and place on a bed of 
the crisp top leaves of celery and 
garnish with parsley and cut lemon. 

nr boston <r 

SELECT the small white bean; 
soak overnight, and boil in 
salted water until the skins 
blow off; drain and put on ice. 
Cut tomatoes, peppers and onions 
in small pieces to make one-half 
the quantity of beans. At the last 
moment toss all together with 
French dressing to which has been 
added a little tabasco, and serve on 
lettuce leaves. 

tT BOURGEOISE <T 

TAKE cold boiled spinach, 
drain and season with but- 
ter, pepper, salt and lemon- 
juice, and press into shallow cups 
3' 



to shape. Put on ice and let re- 
main overnight, if possible. Re- 
move from cups, hollow out a little 
round place in center of each, and 
fill with mayonnaise. Garnish the 
individual plates with watercress 
and egg rings. 

<r chile <r 

TAKE the middle heart of 
four heads of lettuce, wash 
carefully, and wipe dry. Sep- 
arate the leaves and fill with Chile 
salad, which consists of three to- 
matoes peeled and cut fine, one 
cucumber peeled and sliced very 
thin, and one long green pepper 
chopped fine. Over all pour rich 
French dressing. Prepare tomato 
and cucumber first and put on ice. 

<T CHRISTMAS <T 

CHOOSE the largest and 
brightest red apples you can 
find, and cut a deep slice 
from each at the stem end. Scoop 
out the pulp from the apple and 
smooth the inside; drop both the 
covers and apples into cold water 
and leave them until needed. 
Have crisp celery cut into small 
pieces and an equal amount of the 
apple pulp sliced very thin with 
32 



one-third the quantity of the meat 
of English walnuts broken ; mix 
with very stiff mayonnaise. Wipe 
and polish each apple and fill with 
the salad, fitting each cover care- 
fully, and set on shredded red cab- 
bage, just for decoration. 

<r club <r 

BOIL three artichokes, take 
out the hearts and cut into 
dice. Cut six truffles into 
small pieces, mix with artichokes, 
and put both on the ice. Rub 
the bottom of the salad bowl with 
garlic, and put in the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs (not boiled too 
hard), one-half teaspoonful of dry 
mustard and a little salt Work 
well together, gradually adding oil 
until very thick; thin with a little 
tarragon vinegar. Toss the lettuce 
up in this and sprinkle over it 
one teaspoonful of finely chopped 
tarragon leaves, chervil and chives. 
Mix the ice-cold artichokes and 
truffles with a little of the dressing 
and put on top. 

<T COLUMBIA fT 

SELECT fresh medium-sized 
cucumbers. Cut off the blos- 
som end and rub the two 
pieces together briskly until a 
33 



white foam comes. This is to take 
out the bitter, if there be any. 
Peel, scoop out all the seeds, and 
lay the empty boats in ice water. 
Cut up fine one large peeled to- 
mato, a stalk of celery, a small 
onion, a little green pepper and a 
sprig of parsley. Mix these all 
together with mayonnaise and put 
on ice. When ready to serve, fill 
the boats with this mixture, lay on 
lettuce leaves, and heap on top of 
each a big spoonful of mayonnaise, 
which has been colored green by 
adding a little spinach-juice, which 
can be made by boiling a handful 
of spinach, without water, in the 
inner part of a double boiler, and 
squeezing through a cloth 



<r COUNTRY <r 

PUT in a bowl two teaspoonfuls 
of sugar, one of salt, one of 
mustard, one-half teaspoonful 
of celery seed, dash of cayenne, 
and one-quarter cupful of vinegar 
or lemon-juice. Mix thoroughly, 
and add the beaten yolks of four 
eggs. Set the bowl in a pan of 
hot water over the fire and stir 
constantly until thickened. Re- 
move from the fire, and when cool 

3+ 



add one-half teaspoonful Worces- 
tershire sauce and one-half cupful 
of olive-oil, stirring the oil in drop 
by drop. Take equal parts of 
crisp celery and cabbage, cutting 
celery into small pieces and shav- 
ing cabbage. Stir thoroughly into 
dressing and let all get as cold as 
possible. Garnish with rings of 
hard-boiled eggs. 



<T CREOLE tir 

CUT off the tops of six me- 
dium-sized sweet bell-pep- 
pers, saving the top with the 
stem attached; take out all the 
seeds and veins without breaking 
the outer wall, and throw in ice 
water. Roll six soda-crackers, and 
mix with them two tomatoes 
skinned and cut fine, one Spanish 
onion and one red pepper chopped 
fine, a spoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce, salt and enough oil to 
moisten. Take the pepper shells 
from the ice water, wipe dry and 
polish, and fill with this mixture, 
fitting the cover on top, and put 
them on the ice at least two hours 
before serving. When ready, place 
each pepper in a cup of lettuce 
leaves, garnishing with the polished 
35 



red pepper cut in Julienne shreds, 
and pour over a rich French dress- 
ing made with onion-juice, and 
send to the table with anchovy 
toast. 

<T DAINTY <T 

WASH a tender, crisp cab- 
bage, and lay in cold water 
for a half-hour; then with 
a sharp knife shred very fine and 
lay in ice water. Gather the young 
and tender tops of the field sorrel 
when they first sprout, wash thor- 
oughly and put in ice water. 
When ready to serve, shake and 
drain the salad in a colander until 
perfectly dry. Put the cabbage 
in the salad bowl and pour over it 
a rich French dressing, tossing it 
about until every part is covered 
with oil; sprinkle the sorrel over 
the top and serve at once with hot 
deviled crackers. Cover the top 
of crackers with a mixture of plain 
and Parmesan cheese grated. Put 
in the center of each cracker a tea- 
spoonful of tomato catsup and a 
dusting of salt and pepper. Place 
in the oven until the cheese is 
melted and the crackers crisp. 
36 



*r decoy <r 

LAY fresh watercress in ice 
water until crisp, dry thor- 
oughly in a napkin without 
breaking the leaves. Lay in a 
salad dish and cover with thin 
slices of sour apple. Sprinkle 
hard-boiled egg chopped fine on 
top, and serve with French dress- 
ing. This is nice with duck. 



*r dixie <r 

LAY fresh cucumbers on the 
ice until nearly frozen. Cut 
from the blossom end about 
an inch and rub the two pieces to- 
gether to take out the bitter; peel 
and slice very thin and cover with 
crushed ice. Pour over them a 
dressing made by beating a cupful 
of sour cream a few minutes and 
adding a spoonful each of sugar 
and lemon -juice. Send immedi- 
ately to the table. 



tir dublin tgr 

BOIL potatoes with jackets on, 
just to a turn — not too 
mealy, but just so a fork will 
pierce them easily. Peel and slice 
37 



them with a silver knife while hot. 
Add a little chopped onion and 
parsley. For the cream dressing 
beat together in a small saucepan 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, yolk 
of one egg, mustard, salt and cay- 
enne. Lastly, add one cupful of 
sour cream and one-third cupful of 
vinegar, and cook, stirring con- 
stantly until it thickens. 

fjT DUTCHTOWN <T 

CHOP cabbage to make one 
pint. Boil one-half cupful 
of vinegar with one table- 
spoonful each of sugar and butter 
and a saltspoon of salt. Add slowly 
one well -beaten egg. Remove 
from the fire, stir well, and add one- 
quarter cupful of sweet cream. Pour 
this over the cabbage and pi ace on 
ice. Serve in cups made from 
hollowed cooked beets. 

<T FINNEY <r 

PEEL small Bermuda turnips 
of uniform size and boil in 
salted water until tender, but 
not soft; drain, cool, and scoop 
out the centers, making shallow 
cups. Sprinkle these with salt and 
lemon-juice and set on ice to chill 
38 



for an hour. At serving time drain 
the turnip cups and fill with cold 
boiled peas, drained and mixed 
with mayonnaise tinted green. 
Place each cup in a little wreath of 
blanched lettuce leaves and serve 
with more of the green mayonnaise. 
With it pass wafer thin bread and 
butter sandwiches. Nice for green 
and white luncheon. 

<r fisoli <r 

SELECT small, tender string- 
beans; string and cut each 
bean into strips lengthwise, 
lay them evenly together, tie in 
bunches and boil in salted water 
until tender. Turn into a colander 
and rinse in cold water, dry on a 
towel and put on ice. Just before 
serving arrange the heart of the 
lettuce leaves on the outer edge of 
a platter with a layer of white 
chicory inside. Place the beans 
neatly and evenly, the slices all lying 
in one direction, in the center, and 
pour over all a rich French dressing. 

<T FRIAR #T 

SELECT small green squashes 
or pumpkins not larger than 
an egg. Boil quickly without 
paring, in salted water. Drain, wipe 
39 



dry in a napkin and put on the ice. 
Rub the salad bowl with a clove of 
garlic, or use a "chapon" and toss 
the clean crisp lettuce about in 
oil until every part is covered, 
then add the salt and vinegar. 
Three-quarters oil to one-quarter 
vinegar is the proportion. Take 
the ice-cold squashes, slice them 
on top and sprinkle with a dash 
of powdered sage. 

<T GASPACHO ffT 

SOAK French bread in a broth 
and squeeze perfectly dry. Mix 
with it chopped tomato, gher- 
kins and a little garlic. Season 
with salt and Chile-Peka and fill 
the shells of the Pimentos Mor- 
rones. Set each in a cup of lettuce 
leaves garnished with slices of 
lemon and serve with rich French 
dressing. 

<r gibier <r 

SELECT large green bell-pep- 
pers, firm red tomatoes and 
white onions as near same 
size as possible, peel tomatoes and 
onions and put all on the ice. Take 
the heart of Romaine lettuce with- 
out separating the leaves, wash and 
thoroughly dry, and when ready to 
4 o 



serve, not a minute before, cut the 
tomatoes, onions and peppers in 
rings and slip them on the lettuce 
leaves, alternating red, white and 
green, and pour over all French 
dressing. To serve with game. 

<r GROTTO <r 

PLACE in salad bowl one-half 
of a lemon cut in tiny chunks 
and on this put the hearts of 
the lettuce, separating the leaves 
but not breaking apart, and in 
these leaves cut chunks of peeled 
tomatoes and cucumbers which are 
icy cold. Over all sprinkle green 
onion cut so fine it is not distin- 
guishable, and if liked two or three 
tarragon leaves cut fine. Serve 
with French dressing. 

<r HARRON <r 

SCRAPE the outside skin off 
the small green asparagus and 
cut off all but two inches from 
the tips. Tie in bunches and steam 
until tender, plunge into cold wa- 
ter and drain perfectly dry and put 
on ice. When ready to serve cut 
into one-inch lengths and mix with 
chicory pulled into small bits. 
Serve on lettuce leaves with French 
dressing. 

41 



$T HERMITAGE |T 

AFTER washing and scraping 
white the oyster plant, keep- 
ing it under water as much 
as possible while doing it, throw it 
into weak lemon-juice and water 
for a few minutes to blanch. Drain 
carefully and cover with boiling 
water. Cook about forty minutes, 
adding salt and a squeeze of lemon 
when about half cooked. When 
tender, remove from the fire, drain 
well, cut in thin slices with a silver 
knife and place on ice. Serve on 
lettuce leaves with French dressing 
and garnish with slices of lemon. 



<T ITALIENNE <T 

CUT beets, celery root, string- 
beans, cauliflower, carrots, po- 
tatoes, peas and turnips which 
have been previously boiled into 
small dice, with the exception of 
the peas, of course. Take a round 
plate, place the half of a hard- 
boiled egg, cut crosswise, in the 
center to represent the hub of a 
wheel, and capers from the center 
to the outer edge for the spokes, 
with olives stoned and cut in half 
for the tire. Between these spokes 
42 



arrange the cut vegetables sepa- 
rately in the above order. Scatter 
over the center yolk finely chopped 
red peppers and green onions 
mixed. Cover with a rich French 
dressing, and in serving take a 
spoonful from each spoke, with a 
little pepper and onion. Must be 
icy cold. 

<r june <r 

TAKE equal quantities of fresh 
young watercress and en- 
dive, using the well-blanched 
leaves only. Wash the leaves care- 
fully and lay in ice water; also one 
young green onion. Just before 
sending to the table, take from the 
ice water and dry carefully on a 
towel. Tear apart gingerly so as not 
to bruise the leaves, and pile in the 
salad bowl with the onion cut very 
fine strewn on top. Toss lightly 
together with French dressing and 
serve on the instant. 

<T LAKE COUNTY <T 

PUT three cupfuls of mealy 
boiled potatoes through a 
sieve, and while hot add 
one saltspoon mustard, four table- 

43 



spoonfuls butter, two specks pap- 
rika, four tablespoonfuls chopped 
parsley, two teaspoonfuls of onion- 
juice, three tablespoonfuls of vine- 
gar and one egg. Beat all to- 
gether lightly with a silver fork, 
and, if possible, put on ice to get 
thoroughly chilled. When ready 
to serve, lay in spoonfuls on crisp 
lettuce leaves and garnish with 
sprigs of parsley and rings of hard- 
boiled eggs. 

<T LOGAN <T 

CHOP little green Chile pep- 
pers and young onions sepa- 
rately very fine; add a little 
jrisp celery, shredded, and cut in 
tiny bits and mix with mayonnaise. 
Skin firm, smooth tomatoes of 
only medium size, hollow out the 
top, fill with the salad and put on 
ice. When ready to serve, have 
individual plates covered with 
green doilies. On each place a 
large cabbage rose with the center 
picked out and flattened a little. 
Set each tomato in one of these 
with a spoonful of mayonnaise on 
top and a baby rosebud stuck in 
the center. 

44 



fgT LONE STAR §T 

ON A round plate make an 
eight-pointed star of the fol- 
lowing fresh vegetables, cut 
fine and arranged separately in the 
order named: Watercress (green), 
cucumbers (white), peppers (red), 
chicory (white), lettuce (green), 
onions (white), tomatoes (red), 
celery (white). Put the half of a 
lemon in the center, around which 
place cut radishes and green pep- 
pers,with the white of a hard-boiled 
egg chopped fine heaped on the 
lemon. The tiny leaves of the 
lettuce can form the outside bordei 
around all. In serving first place 
lettuce leaves on each plate and on 
them a spoonful of each of the 
vegetables with a little of the egg 
and cover with French dressing. 
Put the star on ice for an hour 
before serving. 

<r lora <r 

RUB salad dish with garlic 
clove and place in it the 
crisp, tender leaves of the 
Romaine lettuce. Mix three table- 
spoonfuls of oil, a pinch of salt 
and paprika together, and slowly 
add six drops of Worcestershire 
45 



sauce and one tablespoonful of tar- 
ragon vinegar, stirring constantly. 
Pour upon lettuce, toss lightly and 
serve immediately. This dressing 
can be made at the table. 

tr mais <r 

BOIL young fresh corn on the 
cob in salted water for twenty 
minutes. Remove from the 
fire and wrap in a napkin until 
cold. Cut from the cob with a 
sharp knife, and mix with thick 
mayonnaise and put on ice. Re- 
move the skin of some firm, smooth 
tomatoes, cut a slice from the stem 
end, take out enough of the seed 
part to make a well for the corn, 
and place these on the ice also. 
Just before sending to the table, 
line a salad platter with crisp let- 
tuce, fill the tomatoes with the 
corn and arrange on the lettuce, 
with a spoonful of mayonnaise on 
each top. 

<T MARYLAND <T 

BOIL in the skins three large 
sweet potatoes. When cold 
remove the skins and cut into 
small pieces. Add to these two 
stalks of celery cut in very small 
46 



pieces and a little onion chopped 
fine, and place in the refrigerator. 
When ready to serve, put the salad 
on a bed of crisp lettuce, cover 
with French dressing, and garnish 
with pitted olives and parsley. 

tr MEXICANO tr 

RUB the salad bowl all around 
with a clove of garlic and fill 
it with white, crisp leaves of 
endive, with a little scattering 
of chopped chervil and tarragon 
leaves on top. Sprinkle with salt 
and pour six tablespoonfuls of oil 
over it and toss about until every 
leaf has a coating, and then put 
on one tablespoonful of vinegar. 
Serve instantly and send with it to 
the table the following relish: Get 
from the baker small cream-puff 
shells, the smallest that are made; 
open carefully on one side and fill 
them with a paste made by beat- 
ing a cream cheese with French 
dressing till it is smooth and as 
thick as soft cream. 

tT MOUNTAIN tfT 

PLACE young cauliflower in 
iust enough boiling salted 
water to cover them, and cook 
for a few minutes but not long 
47 



enough to take out the crispness. 
Remove from the fire, drain, and 
put on ice until very cold. When 
ready to serve, separate the sprigs 
and pile them on the leaves of let- 
tuce and cover with French dress- 
ing. Sprinkle a few capers on top 
and with it serve the following 
sandwiches: Grate the tenderest, 
crispest celery stalks to make two 
tablespoonfuls; mix with it an 
equal bulk of Neufchatel cheese, 
one olive chopped fine and a tea- 
spoonful of lemon-juice. Spread 
on slices of thinly cut bread spread 
with butter and put together in 
pairs. 

fT NUGET <T 

TAKE the small yellow toma- 
toes, remove the skins care- 
fully and put them in the 
ice-chest to get as cold as can be 
without being frozen. Make a 
bed of the crisp white leaves of 
lettuce, and arrange the whole to- 
matoes in uniform order on this, 
and over all sprinkle a little parsley 
chopped fine. Serve with French 
dressing. 
rfP OLIVER TWIST <T 

HAVE the celery very cold, 
scrape and cut the clean, 
crisp, inner stalks into nar- 
row straws about three inches in 
4 8 



length, and curl by letting them 
lie in ice water. Peel a few firm 
radishes and put in ice water also. 
When ready to serve, place a four- 
inch cube of ice in the center of 
the salad bowl and arrange a bor- 
der of the blanched leaves of the 
celery and the curly white center 
of chicory. Dry the celery on a 
napkin and heap it on the ice cube. 
Slice the crisp radishes very thin 
and scatter on top. Make the 
mayonnaise white to serve with 
this by using more lemon-juice and 
the beaten white of an egg. 

<T PIQUANTE <T 

AFTER thoroughly freshening 
the heart of a big bunch of 
celery, wipe dry and cut into 
inch lengths, and then into strips. 
Mince a tablespoonful of parsley 
and six blades of chives. Mix 
with French dressing, and at the 
last moment toss in lightly the 
petals of a dozen large nasturtium 
blossoms. Put this in the center 
of a salad bowl lined with crisp 
lettuce, and garnish elaborately with 
nasturtium leaves and blossoms. 

<r pluche tfr 

TAKE the crisp hearts of let- 
tuce and lay open, but do 
not break apart. Chop the 
leaves of tarragon, chervil, eschal- 

49 



Jot, and chives, and put with them 
a few canned French mushrooms 
wiped dry and cut into small 
pieces. Mix all together and scat- 
ter in the lettuce hearts. Thor- 
oughly chill and serve with French 
dressing. 

<T PORTUGUESE fT 

THROW macaroni, without 
washing, into boiling water 
which has been well salted. 
Shake frequently to prevent stick- 
ing, and the moment it is tender 
put into a colander and pour cold 
water over it. After it has drained 
put on ice until thoroughly cold. 
Line the salad dish with crisp let- 
tuce leaves, cut the macaroni into 
inch lengths and spread on top in 
a heap, around this lay sliced cold 
boiled beets, and over all scatter 
chopped hard-boiled eggs. Serve 
with French dressing. 

fT PROVENCALE £* 

BOIL small young beets and 
skin. Make a mound in the 
center of the salad dish of 
cold boiled new potatoes cut in 
thin slices, minced onions, shredded 
5° 



lettuce and celery. Around this 
place a row of beets, quartered, 
alternating with pieces of hard- 
boiled egg. Outside of this, sprigs 
of watercress and chicory, and over 
all a few chopped coriander leaves. 
Set on ice and just before serving 
pour over a rich French dressing. 

<T SING LEE rfT 

POUR boiling water over large 
smooth tomatoes of uniform 
size, remove the skin and set 
on ice. Blanch fresh-roasted pea- 
nut meats by pouring boiling water 
over them, skin, and when cold 
pound finely and mix with mayon- 
naise dressing. Gouge out the 
center of each tomato with a spoon 
and fill the cavity with the peanut 
mixture. Return to the ice until 
ready to serve, and then place each 
tomato on a lettuce leaf with a 
spoonful of mayonnaise. 

tir SOUTHERN <r 

TAKE eight tomatoes, peel and 
slice and set on ice. Make 
a dressing of the yolks of six 
hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth, 
one tablespoonful of dry mustard, 

5' 



one of oil or melted butter, one of 
white sugar, a teaspoonful each of 
salt and pepper, one-half teacupful 
of vinegar, the juice of one lemon, 
and a raw egg well beaten. Just 
before serving cover the tomatoes 
with broken ice and pour over the 
dressing. 

<r spring <r 

GATHER fresh young dande- 
lion sprigs, pick them over 
carefully, wash and lay the 
tender leaves in ice water. When 
ready to use pat dry between the 
folds of a napkin, and lay in a 
salad bowl; add two young spring 
onions, minced, and toss lightly 
over and over in French dressing 
and serve at once. 

<T SUNFLOWER <T 

BOIL artichokes until tender 
and put on ice until thorough- 
ly cold. Cut the heart out in 
little chunks, saving enough of the 
best outer leaves to form a sun- 
flower on individual plates. Fill 
the center of each with the heart 
chunks covered completely with 
mayonnaise to form center of flower. 
52 



FRUIT 

if if if 

if if 

if 



<T ALAMO fT 

CHOOSE medium-sized sour 
oranges; cut in half crosswise, 
remove the pulp and throw 
the shells into cold water. Add to 
the pulp of each orange one tea- 
spoonful of creme de menthe syrup, 
half a teaspoonful of finely chop- 
ped sweet red peppers and a table- 
spoonful of sliced deviled almonds. 
When ready to serve, wipe and 
polish the shells and fill with the 
pulp mixture. Garnish each with 
creme de menthe cherries and crys- 
tallized mint leaves and serve in 
\ettuce cups. Suitable with a game 
course. 

H? AMBROSIA H? 

MAKE cups of the white heart 
leaves of crisp lettuce, by 
crossing the stem ends. 
Pile a few big red strawberries in 
the center of each cup and dust 
with powdered sugar. Put a tea- 
spoonful of mayonnaise dressing 
on a leaf of each cup. 

<T AVOCADO j? 

KEEP alligator pears on ice 
until needed, as they should 
be served as cold as possible. 
Just before sending to the table 
55 



cut them lengthwise and remove 
the large, hard seeds and fill the 
cavity with French dressing, to 
which a few drops of onion-juice 
has been added. Make a hollow 
in a shallow square of ice with a 
hot iron; place the pears in this, 
evenly arranged with the stem ends 
in center, and cover the edge of 
the ice with sprigs of pretty green. 
Only the center of the pear is eaten 
out. 

tfT CARDINAL <r 

REMOVE the stones from the 
black ox-heart cherries and 
in their place put a blanched 
hazelnut to preserve the shape. 
Arrange on lettuce hearts and 
serve with French dressing made 
with lemon-juice and no onion. 

<r cuban <r 

LAY bananas on the ice until 
half frozen; peel, slice thinly 
into a glass bowl and scatter 
with maraschino cherries. Make 
a syrup of a half-cupful of lemon- 
juice, one cupful granulated sugar 
and one tablespoonful of sherry, 
and pour over them ; cover closely 
and keep on ice until needed. Serve 
on lettuce leaves. 
56 



<T ENGLISH *r 

TAKE pineapple, oranges, 
white grapes and red plums, 
remove skin and cut into 
little irregular pieces; add black- 
berries and sprinkle sugar over all 
and cover with white wine. Serve 
ice cold in place of punch. 

<r epicure <r 

SOAK fresh, sweet oranges in 
water for a few minutes to 
soften the skin and let the oil 
out Wipe dry, polish and slice 
very thin, at once, unpeeled. Pack 
in a punch-bowl, sprinkling each 
layer with sugar, and pour over 
enough Bourbon to cover it well. 
Put on the ice for an hour. Serve 
in liqueur-glasses, putting a lump 
of cracked ice in the bottom of 
each glass, and on top a shaving 
of crisp icy cucumber and a spray 
of borage. With it pass sea-foam 
crackers. 

<r felix <r 

CUT grapefruit in half and 
remove pulp. Cut the pulp 
into junks, being careful to 
take off all the bitter whit*" put 

57 



Dacfc in the shells with a teaspoon- 
ful of Jamaica rum and one of 
sugar to each and cover with French 
dressing. 

§T FRATERNITY $T 

PUT the oranges on ice for at 
least an hour before using. 
Cut a piece from the top of 
each, quarter the peel half way 
down and roll it back and scoop 
out the pulp. To this add shred- 
ded pineapple, sliced bananas, and 
one maraschino cherry to each 
orange. Toss all together and re- 
turn to orange shells and fill re- 
maining space with sherry and 
sugar, and serve on lettuce cups. 

<r gooche <r 

PARE three juicy apples and 
cut into dice. Peel two 
lemons and cut into smaller 
dice and mix thoroughly with a 
stalk of chopped celery, cover with 
mayonnaise dressing and serve on 
lettuce leaves. 

HT HAVANA fT 

SELECT the firm, small canta- 
loup melons and lay on ice 
until nearly frozen. Just be- 
fore serving cut in half, scrape out 

58 



the seeds, and cut from the rind 
the ripe portion; clean and smooth 
the empty shells. Divide the ripe 
parts into small bits, and heap these 
with chunks of ice in the empty- 
melon, and pour over all French 
dressing. Arrange grape leaves 
on each plate, on which place the 
half of each melon. 

<T IMPERATRICE <T 

TAKE whole pears and cook 
with their stems on in as 
little water as possible, with 
sugar and a little ginger; drain off 
all the juice and lay, with stems 
up, in a deep glass dish and put 
on the ice. Break up with a fork 
a cream cheese, and pour the syrup 
of the pears over this and add a 
rich French dressing made with 
much lemon-juice and no onion. 
Blanch a few almonds and chop 
fine, and a few maraschino cherries 
cut fine, and scatter over the pears 
and pour over the dressing. Serve 
with hot crackers. 

<T MACEDONE fT 

TAKE two ripe peaches; peel, 
and quarter the pulp; one 
grapefruit, free from all the 
white, and cut in bits; chip cut- 

59 



up pears ; some acid plums peeled 
and sliced and a few berries. Mix 
the fruit and pour over it a dress- 
ing made of four tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sugar, one gill of sherry, 
one tablespoonful maraschino syrup 
and two of champagne, stirred 
until sugar is all dissolved ; put in 
the refrigerator for two hours. 
When serving put in a glass bowl 
and set that in a silver one filled 
with cracked ice. This is suitable 
as a first course at luncheon, served 
with crackers spread with Neuf- 
chatel cheese. 

fF MELON D'EAU §? 

KEEP a watermelon on ice 
long enough to be chilled 
through; cut in half length- 
wise and scoop out the pulp in 
egg-shaped pieces with a table- 
spoon, rejecting every seed. Clean 
and smooth the inside of one-half 
of the melon shell and polish the 
outside to serve as a bowl. Arrange 
grape leaves on an oblong platter 
and set the melon bowl in the 
midst, with a chunk of ice in the 
middle of it. Pile the pink melon 
about the ice, and pour over a 
French dressing made with salt, 
lemon-juice and oil. 
60 



rfT MUM §r 



TAKE a half-dozen each, of 
peaches, plums andpreserved 
cherries. Peel, quarter and 
pit the peaches and plums, and cut 
cherries in half; add one pint 
of blackberries, raspberries and 
huckleberries mixed. Toss all 
together lightly and pour over it 
a cup of sugar and a pint of 
champagne, which is almost frozen. 
Put all on ice to keep at freezing 
point. Serve on berry plates and 
put a spoonful of lemon water-ice 
on top of each portion. 



fjT PALACE GRILL *T 



CUT clean, crisp stalks of 
celery into narrow straws 
about like matches, and 
throw in ice water. Peel a pine- 
apple and shred with a fork. 
Chop fine a few green peppers 
and pimentos and put all on the 
ice. When ready to use dry the 
celery in a napkin, and mix all 
together with a mayonnaise, to 
which a cup of whipped cream has 
been added. Serve icy cold on 
lettuce hearts. 

61 



<r RENEAU <r 

PEEL and quarter the grape- 
fruit, removing every particle 
of the bitter white skin that 
coats the lobe. Cut each quarter 
in half the other way, place on the 
white leaves of the lettuce, keep 
on the ice up to the instant of 
serving, and then cover with 
French dressing. 

<T ROEDERER <T 

PEEL a very ripe pineapple, 
dig out the eyes, and with a 
fork shred it to the core ; mix 
with it one tomato, peeled and cut 
into bits, a few diced figs, and a 
few English walnut meats. Toss 
the fruit lightly together, sprinkle 
liberally with fine sugar and put 
on the ice. When ready to use 
lift carefully from the juicy syrup 
and put on a bed of lettuce hearts; 
mix with the syrup a tablespoonful 
of brandy and a little maraschino, 
and pour over the whole. 

# N ROYALE fir 

CHILL apricots, peel them, 
and cut in half, taking out 
the stone. Stuff the cavity 
with maraschino cherries and nuts 
62 



cut fine. Arrange on crisp lettuce 
leaves, and pour over it a dressing 
made of four tablespoonfuls of oil, 
salt and paprika, and one table- 
spoonful each of apricot brandy and 
vinegar. Serve with this thin slices 
of bread and butter sandwiches, cut 
into strips. 

<r Vienna <r 

HAVE the salad one-half of 
thinly sliced tart apples, one- 
quarter of the white part of 
the celery cut fine, and one-quarter 
of English walnuts chopped fine; 
add a bunch of Malaga grapes, 
peeled and cut up. Mix with 
mayonnaise dressing, and serve in 
cups made by hollowing out the 
apples. Set in the tender leaves 
of the celery. 

g> |p f 



if 



63 



CHEESE 
jF jF |P 

<F 



*T EN COQUILLE <T 

GRATE a half-pound of good, 
old cheese; rub smooth the 
yolk of one hard-boiled egg, 
with one tablespoonful of olive-oil, 
one teaspoonful each of salt, sugar 
and mustard, with a dash of cay- 
enne. After these are well mixed 
work in one tablespoonful of vin- 
egar and a little tabasco. Mix 
with the cheese and serve in scal- 
lop-shells laid on lettuce leaves, 
with the white of the egg cut in 
rings and laid on each. 



<T FILLEY <T 

MOLD cottage cheese into 
little flat balls, making it 
moist with cream, and add- 
ing a little butter and plenty of 
salt, and put on ice. Rub the 
salad bowl with a clove of garlic 
and arrange in it the bleached 
leaves of chicory to form a nest. 
On this alternate the little cakes 
of cheese, with hard-boiled eggs 
cut in half. Over it put French 
dressing, to which a few drops of 
onion-juice has been added. 
67 



tr GERVAISE ttr 

USE two heaping tablespoon- 
fuls of Roquefort cheese to 
one head of lettuce. Tear 
the lettuce hearts apart, but do not 
separate, and lay in the salad dish; 
break the cheese into small bits 
and scatter among lettuce leaves 
and cover with rich French dress- 
ing. With this serve cresslets, 
made by placing between thin 
slices of buttered Boston brown 
bread watercress dipped in French 
dressing. Trim the edges neatly 
and cut in long, narrow fingers. 

<r gringo <r 

SEPARATE olives from the 
stone spirally as one peels an 
apple. Into this cavity insert 
a small ball of cream cheese made 
smooth with oil and seasoned with 
lemon-juice, salt and tabasco. Scat- 
ter these over plain delicate Ro- 
maine lettuce, very fresh and crisp, 
and arranged on a flat salad dish. 
Serve with French dressing. 

4T MARGUERITE <T 

CUT from Neufchatel cheese 
little slices a half-inch in 
thickness, and from this, with 
a little two-inch tin cutter, cut out 
68 



little rounds. Grate the yolks of 
two hard-boiled eggs and press a 
little of this in the center of each 
round, sprinkling a little paprika 
on top. Scatter these "daisies" 
in the hearts of crisp lettuce leaves 
and serve with a rich French dress- 
ing. 

*r milanaise tr 

TAKE cottage cheese, and rub 
smooth with cream, using a 
silver fork. Season gener- 
ously with salt and paprika, and 
mix with it one-half as much ripe 
olives, stoned and chopped fine. 
Shape into small ovals and put on 
ice until ready to use. Serve on 
the crisp, white leaves of lettuce 
and chicory, mixed with mayon- 
naise dressing, and garnish with 
pitted olives cut in half. 

<T PLOVER <T 

TAKE the little Siena cream 
cheese, remove the outside 
rind and put into a bowl 
with a little salt, tabasco sauce, a 
spoonful of mayonnaise and a little 
left-over spinach, mashed and put 
through a sieve. Rub together 
thoroughly until smooth and the 
69 



green coloring matter evenly dis- 
tributed. Make with butter pats 
into little birds' eggs, flecking each 
with black pepper. Arrange white 
chicory and shredded white lettuce 
leaves on a plate like a nest, and 
put the eggs in, serving with 
mayonnaise. 

tfT WALNUT CREAM <T 

WITH a silver fork rub a 
cream cheese and a table- 
spoonful of butter to a 
paste; add salt and cayenne, and 
if not soft enough, a little sweet 
cream. Make into small flat balls, 
and on each press the two halves 
of an English walnut. Lay on 
the white heart leaves of lettuce, 
and put all in the refrigerator until 
ready to use. On the instant of 
serving pour over a rich French 
dressing and send to the table with 
thin buttered bread, which has been 
put in the oven and crisped. 

jT jT jT 



if 



70 



One Hundred ^One 

CHAFING-DISH 
RECIPES 

OYSTERS • MUSH- 
ROOMS • FISH • MEAT 
FOWL AND GAME 
EGGS • CHEESE 
SWEET 



THE chafing-dish possibilities 
are unlimited. To the epi- 
cure it insures good service 
and hot dishes; to the woman who 
does her own work it is the most 
convenient of all utensils, and is 
valued by the amateur for the fun 
of it, and seems always a synonym 
for hospitality and an appetite. 

It is placed on a metal tray for 
safety and cleanliness, and one with 
a lower pan for hot water is almost 
a necessity, in cooking, and to 
keep the dishes warm. 

Most of the foods for the vari- 
ous dishes are prepared beforehand 
in the kitchen and placed, with the 
seasonings needed, conveniently at 
hand in dishes and on trays. 



1 ¥ 
1 



OYSTERS 
1 1 3 

¥ 



* AUNT DINAH * 

SCALD four cupfuls of milk 
with a slice of onion, two stalks 
of celery, two blades of mace, 
a sprig of parsley and a bay leaf. 
Remove the seasonings and add 
the strained liquor from a quart of 
oysters, pepper and salt, and two 
tablespoonfuls of butter creamed 
with two of flour. Cook all to- 
gether, and then put in the oysters 
and cook until they are plump and 
the edges begin to curl. 

> BATTER LOAF * 

MIX four tablespoonfuls of 
sifted flour, one of olive- 
oil, a little salt and the 
beaten whites of two eggs; add 
enough warm water to make a 
rather thick batter. Take two 
dozen large oysters, dry them on 
a soft cloth, dust each oyster very 
lightly with salt and pepper and 
dip separately into the batter and 
fry a golden brown in deep olive- 
oil. Serve on a napkin with sliced 
lemon. 

* BUNDLES * 

CUT nice, even slices of the 
breast of cold roast turkey; 
over each piece lay a thin 
shaving of bacon, and put on top 
of each piece of bacon a large, fat 
oyster. Roll these bundles up 
and tie securely, season with pep- 

79 



per and salt, and place in the pan 
with melted butter. Cover and 
cook long enough to cook the ba- 
con, basting frequently with the 
melted butter. Serve with a sprig 
of parsley on each one and pour 
over the brown gravy thickened 
with a little flour. 

* COCKTAIL * 

TAKE a pint of small oysters 
with the liquor that comes 
with them; add a cupful of 
tomato catsup, the juice of two 
lemons, one tablespoonful of Wor- 
cestershire sauce, salt and six drops 
of tabasco. Heat in the chafing- 
dish and serve hot in cocktail- 
glasses. 

* EN CACHETTE * 

SOAK one cupful of cracker- 
crumbs in as much milk as 
they will absorb; add a tea- 
spoonful of softened butter, one- 
quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a 
dash of white pepper and nutmeg, 
one-half of a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley and one beaten 
egg yolk. Form into small cakes, 
hide a fat oyster in each one and 
sauter a pale brown in olive-oil. 

* FIGARO OMELET * 

BEAT six eggs very light, and 
add to them a half-cupful of 
sweet cream, salt and pepper 
to taste. Melt a tablespoonful of 

80 



butter in the pan and pour the 
omelets evenly in. Cat twelve 
large oysters in half and scatter 
over the top with a little chopped 
parsley. Fry a light brown, fold 
the omelet over from the two sides, 
and serve at once. 

* GUMBO OYSTERS * 

SAUTER a few dices of salt pork 
with a tablespoonful of minced 
onion until nicely browned; 
add a tablespoonful of flour, and 
when it is well blended with the fat, 
put in a cupful of chicken broth, 
a teaspoonful of minced green 
peppers and a cupful each of 
cooked okra and tomatoes. Sea- 
son with salt and pepper and strain 
in the liquor from a pint of fresh 
oysters. Lastly put in the oysters, 
and as soon as they are plump, 
pour over hot Boston crackers, 
split and buttered. Gumbo pow- 
der can be used instead of the okra. 

OYSTERS A LA 
* POULETTE * 

SCALD two dozen oysters in 
their own liquor until plump, 
and strain. Put in the pan 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and 
when melted, stir in four table- 
spoonfuls of flour until perfectly 
smooth; then add the oyster-juice, 
one cupful of cream, pepper, salt, 
and a dash of nutmeg. Take 
from the flame, and when a little 
cool, stir in the beaten yolks of 

81 



four eggs and return to the fire 
and stir until thick. Drop the 
oysters in for a second and pour 
immediately on a hot platter. 

* PANNED OYSTERS * 

HEAT the pan very hot. Put 
into it a tablespoonful of 
butter, then the oysters, 
which have been well drained. 
Cook until well browned. Have 
ready some even pieces of toast, 
soften them with some of the 
liquor from the pan, place three or 
four oysters on each piece, and 
pour over them the rest of the 
liquor. Sprinkle over the top a 
little chopped parsley, and garnish 
with lemon slices. 

¥> PEPPER STEW * 

REMOVE the seeds from two 
small green peppers, chop 
fine, and fry for five minutes, 
in two tablespoonfuls of butter; 
add one-half cupful of the strained 
oyster-juice, a saltspoon of salt, 
dusting of white pepper and twenty- 
five oysters. Simmer for five min- 
utes, pour in half a glass of sherry, 
heat for amoment and serve, poured 
over buttered toast fingers. 

RAREBIT OF OYSTERS 

BREAK into small pieces one- 
half pound of rich cheese, 
and put into the pan with a 
tablespoonful of melted butter. 

82 



Remove the hard muscles from a 
pint of oysters and cook them un- 
til plump; drain and keep hot. 
Beat up the yolks of two eggs, add 
oyster-liquor and oysters, and stir 
into the melted cheese. Toast 
bread on one side only, and serve 
on the untoasted side. 



> STEAMED OYSTERS * 

CAREFULLY wash the shells 
and pack them in the pan 
with their upper shells down- 
ward, so the deep shell will hold 
their juice as they open. Place 
the pan over the hot water and 
cover closely, laying a napkin on 
the top and a weight on the cover. 
Keep the water boiling rapidly 
until the shells open, which will be 
about fifteen minutes. Serve at 
once in the shells, using butter, 
salt and pepper to season them. 



UNIVERSITY GRILL 

DRAIN off all the liquor from 
a pint of oysters and put 
them in a hot chafing-dish. 
As the liquor flows from the oysters, 
dip it out with a spoon and keep 
them as dry as possible, until they 
are plump. Sprinkle them with 
salt and pepper and add two table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Lay each one 
on a zephyrette and pour the 
liquor over. 

83 



MUSHROOMS 

¥ ¥ ¥ 

¥ ¥ 

¥ 



* BOMBAY CEPES > 

PEEL and wash two pounds of 
fresh mushrooms, adding a 
little vinegar to the water to 
keep them as white as possible. 
Drain, then slice the heads and 
chop up the stalks. Have four 
tablespoonfuls of heated olive-oil, 
add the heads and fry until a light 
brown, then add two tablespoonfuls 
of chopped shallots, two bruised 
cloves of garlic, and the chopped 
stalks. Drain most of the oil off. 
Add two ladlefuls of tomato sauce 
and a little melted beef extract. 
Season with salt, white pepper and 
a dash of cayenne. Boil two min- 
utes, shaking the pan all the time. 
Addalittlelemon-juiceand chopped 
parsley just before taking from 
the fire. 

* CHAMPIGNONS * 

STEW the mushrooms in a little 
water with a tablespoonful of 
butter and seasoning of pepper 
and salt; add half a cupful of 
cream, remove from the fire and 
stir in the beaten yolks of two 
eggs; replace on the fire for a 
moment to thicken the eggs and 
serve at once. 

* GOLDEN WEST * 

PEEL and chop fine one-quarter 
of a pound of fresh mush- 
rooms; put them in the pan 
with two tablespoonfuls of butter 

87 



and ten drops of onion-juice, ana 
sauter until a golden brown; add 
the mashed yolks of six hard-boiled 
eggs and one tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley. Season with salt 
and pepper, and stir in two well- 
beaten eggs mixed with two table- 
spoonfuls of cream and the whites 
of the hard-boiled eggs cut fine. 
Serve on hot buttered soda biscuits. 

ROASTED MUSHROOMS 

PEEL a dozen mushrooms and 
remove the stems. Melt a 
teaspoonful of butter in the 
chafing-dish, and when quite hot 
turn out the flame. Cover the 
bottom of the dish with the mush- 
rooms, placing a bit of butter in 
each and seasoning with pepper and 
salt. Relight the lamp and cook 
for six minutes, covered. Serve 
while very hot. 

* WEST INDIAN * 

PUT a scant tablespoonful of 
olive-oil in the pan. When 
hot add two slices of onion, 
minced, and cook a light yellow. 
As soon as the onion is ready turn 
in one cup of mushrooms, peeled 
and cut into small pieces, one cup 
of tomatoes, two tablespoonfuls of 
boiled tongue cut fine, salt, pepper 
and a few grains of cayenne. Lastly 
break in three raw eggs and as soon 
as they are set, serve. The sauce 
can be thickened with a little flour 
if desired. 



FISH 
¥ ¥ ¥ 
¥ ¥ 
¥ 



* BOUILLABAISSE > 

HEAT one gill or salad oil; 
add two onions and one 
sliced garlic. After it is 
browned, throw in three pounds of 
fresh fish cut in small pieces, twelve 
fresh mussels, salt, pepper, one 
lemon sliced, three sliced tomatoes 
and one pint of white wine. If nec- 
essary, add a little water. Cover 
and cook a half-hour. Add a little 
choppedparsleyandpourover toast. 

COSMOS CLUB SHRIMPS 

ONE tablespoonful of butter 
and one of flour creamed to- 
gether; add one teacupful of 
sweet cream, a pinch of red pepper, 
a little lemon-juice and enough 
tomato sauce to make it the color 
of shrimps. Putinthe chafing-dish 
and let come to a boil, stirring con- 
stantly. Add one-half pound of 
picked shrimps, boil up once, and 
serve on hot buttered crackers. 

CRABS WITH 
* MUSHROOMS * 

PUT into the pan a tablespoon- 
ful of butter and a slice of 
onion chopped fine. Before 
it browns, add a tablespoonful of 
flour and cook, but not brown. 
Mash the yolk of a hard-boiled 
egg smooth with one-half of a cup- 
ful of cream, salt, cayenne and a 
dash of lemon-juice, and stir in 
slowly until thick and smooth. 

9i 



Then add the crab meat and the 
same quantity of mushrooms cut 
in dice. 

DELMONICO LOBSTER 

CUT lobster meat in small 
cubes; or if canned lobster is 
used, open and empty into 
an earthen bowl an hour before 
using. Melt two tablespoonfuls 
of butter in the pan and add a 
tablespoonful of flour, salt, cayenne 
and a grating of nutmeg. Work 
smooth and free from lumps, and 
then add gradually one cupful of 
cream, a gill of sherry, the lobster 
meat and two hard-boiled eggs cut 
in slices. Serve with thin slices of 
lemon on top. 

> DUNBAR SHRIMPS * 

PUT a big lump of butter in 
the pan with salt, cayenne, 
one and one-half teaspoonfuls 
of Worcestershire sauce and two 
cupfuls of cream. When hot, add 
two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine 
and one pint of shrimps. Let 
come to a boil and serve on hot 
dainty chips. 

FRICASSEED LOBSTER 

PUT in the pan one table- 
spoonful of butter and one- 
half cupful of water. When 
the butter is melted, add two cup- 
fuls of lobster cut into small pieces, 
one tablespoonful of vinegar,a little 
salt, pepper, mace and mustard. 

92 



When this is hot add one beaten 
egg, stirring constantly until the 
sauce is thick and creamy. 

FROGS A LA POULETTE 

SAUTER the skinned frogs'legs 
in butter, and when nearly 
cooked, add some fresh mush- 
rooms, peeled and cut in dice. 
Pour these on a hot dish, and put 
in the pan a cupful of cream, a 
tablespoonful each of butter and 
chopped parsley and a dash of 
nutmeg. When it has boiled up, 
remove from the fire and add the 
yolks of three eggs beaten up with 
a little cold cream and the juice of 
half a lemon. Stir constantly and 
add slowly, and place over the flame 
just for an instant, and then pour 
over the frogs and mushrooms and 
serve instantly. 

* GRENOUILLE * 

SKIN frogs'legs and dip them in 
milk; sprinkle with salt and 
pepper and roll them in flour. 
Have smoking hot olive-oil in the 
pan and cook them in that until a 
delicate brown. Serve on a hot, 
folded napkin. 

GRILLED SARDINES 

DRAIN and skin boneless sar- 
dines. Heat two tablespoon- 
fuls of olive-oil in the pan and 
sauter the sardines in this, turning 

93 



them once. While hot, season 
them with salt, cayenne and a little 
lemon-juice. Lay each one on a 
narrow strip of toasted bread. 

* HALIBUT RAREBIT * 

SPRINKLE two small slices of 
halibut with salt and pepper, 
brush over with melted butter, 
and place in the greased pan and 
cook twelve minutes. Remove to 
a hot platter and pour over it a 
Welsh rarebit. 

JAPANESE SHRIMPS 

PUT a pint of milk in the 
chafing-dish over the hot-wa- 
ter pan; when it boils, add 
two tablespoonfuls of butter and 
two of flour worked together until 
smooth, and stir until thick ; then 
add one cupful of strained toma- 
toes, one-quarter of a teaspoonful 
of soda, seasoning, and lastly the 
picked shrimps. Serve on toast. 

LOBSTER ALA 
* NEWBERG * 

CUT lobster in small pieces. 
Melt one tablespoonful of 
butter, add half a cupful of 
sherry wine, put in the lobster and 
cook for ten minutes. Beattheyolks 
of three eggs thoroughly, and add 
to them one tablespoonful of cream 

94 



to prevent curdling. Put a half- 
cupful of cream with the lobster 
already cooking, add pepper and 
salt, and let cook until it bubbles. 
Lastly stir in the beaten yolks and 
serve immediately. 



* MINCED CLAMS > 

HAVE the clams steamed and 
chopped. Put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter in the pan, and 
when melted, work in smooth one 
tablespoonful of flour; then add 
slowly one-half cupful each of the 
clam liquor and cream. Season 
with pepper and a little salt and 
cook until smooth, stirring all the 
time. Add the cupful of chopped 
clams at the last moment and pour 
over small pieces of toast. 



* PIEDMONT TOAST * 

TAKE four anchovies, free 
them from skin and bone 
and chop fine; mix them 
with a half-pint of good stock and 
the yolks of six eggs and the beaten 
whites of two; add salt, pepper 
and parsley, and stir over the blaze 
until smooth, then pour into a bowl. 
Cover the bottom of the chafing- 
dish with toasted bread, pour the 
anchovy sauce over it, and sprinkle 
grated cheese on top. Cover and 
cook over hot water for ten min- 
utes. 

95 



> REX CRAB # 

ONE large crab, not shredded, 
but broken in large pieces. 
Rub smooth the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs with one table- 
spoonful of butter and two of flour, 
and add milk to make it the con- 
sistency of cream. Cook with the 
hot-water pan, and when ready to 
use, put in the seasoning, the 
whites of the eggs chopped fine, 
one gill of sherry and the crab. 
Serve on toast. 



ST. LAWRENCE CRAB 

FRY one onion and one Chile 
pepper cut fine in a large 
piece of butter until the onion 
is well done, but not browned; 
add one cupful of tomato to this 
and cook for five minutes, and 
then put in the meat of one crab 
shredded very fine, salt and cay- 
enne. Cover well with cold sweet 
cream, to which a little corn-starch 
has been added to thicken. Serve 
on hot, buttered toast. 



SCALLOPED LOBSTER 

GUT up a large cooked lob- 
ster and sauter in olive-oil. 
Add parsley, salt, pepper and 
a tablespoonful of chopped onion. 
Put in a cupful of white stock and 
one tablespoonful of Chablis; cook 
ten minutes and serve hot over 
squares of toast. 
96 



SCOTCH FINNAN 
* HADDIE * 

DIP the fish in boiling water, 
take out all the bones and 
skin. Pound the meat and 
add pepper, salt, butter and a 
tablespoonful each of lemon-juice 
and cream. Cook and stir until 
smooth, then pour over slices of 
toast buttered and dipped for an 
instant in hot water. 



> SIMPLICITE * 

MAKE a sauce of two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, two 
and one-half of flour and 
two cupfuls of milk. Mash the 
yolks of four hard-boiled eggs and 
mix with one teaspoonful of an- 
chovy essence, and add to the 
sauce. Put in two cupfuls of cold- 
boiled flaked fish, and as soon as 
it is all heated through, slice in 
the white rings of the eggs and 
serve. 



* STEWED SHRIMPS * 

MELT two tablespoonfuls of 
butter in the chafing-dish, 
and stir in one tablespoon- 
ful of flour, salt, and pepper, and 
add one pint of milk. When boil- 
ing, smooth and thick like cream, 
put in one pint of picked shrimps. 
Pour hot on toasted biscuits and 
serve at once. 



97 



J* TERRAPIN * 

THE terrapin should be 
cleaned and prepared by a 
professional, the meat cut in 
small bit's, and the eggs saved and 
placed in the empty shell until 
needed. Put the cut terrapin in 
the pan with one and a half table- 
spoonfuls of butter and two of 
water, and any juices that may 
have collected in the shell. Season 
with a teaspoonful of salt and a 
pinch each of pepper, mace and 
allspice. Simmer for fifteen min- 
utes and then set over the hot- 
water pan. Mash the yolks of 
three hard-boiled eggs very smooth 
and mix with them one cupful of 
cream; add this to the stew and 
also one gill of sherry, the terrapin 
eggs and a half of a lemon cut in 
thin slices. Serve very hot. 



98 



MEAT 

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* BATH CHOPS * 

PUT half a walnut of butter in 
the chafing-dish, and when 
melted add two tablesponfuls 
of jelly, a dash of red pepper and 
a half-glass of sherry. Place thin 
slices of ham in this and simmer 
for a few moments. 

BECHAMEL 

* SWEETBREADS * 

PARBOIL a pair of sweet- 
breads, pick to pieces and cut 
rather small; chop five mush- 
rooms very fine. Put a tablespoon- 
ful of butter in the blazer, when 
melted add a tablespoonful of flour 
and mix until smooth; add a half- 
pint of cream and stir constantly 
until it boils, then add the mush- 
rooms and sweetbreads and stir for 
five minutes. Season with salt and 
white pepper. 

* BRAIN CUTLETS * 

CAREFULLY wash the brains 
and let them stand in cold 
water for an hour. Then 
parboil in water containing a table- 
spoonful of vinegar for fifteen 
minutes or until they are tender; 
drain thoroughly and remove all 
skin and fibers, and divide into 
pieces. This may be done hours 
in advance. Season with pepper 
and salt, and dip each piece in egg 
and cracker-crumbs and fry in but- 
ter or olive-oil. Serve very hot in 
a napkin. 



BREADED TONGUE 

CUT cold boiled corned tongue 
in slices a third of an inch 
thick. Sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, dip in egg and crumbs, 
and sauter in butter. Remove to 
hot plates; reheat and pour over 
it a tomato sauce which has been 
previously prepared. 

Tomato Sauce — Cook a sliced 
onion with a cupful of tomatoes, 
rub through a strainer and add 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, two 
of flour and seasoning. 

CORNED BEEF HASH 

HAVE equal proportions of 
cooked corned beef and cold 
boiled potatoes chopped 
rather coarsely and seasoned with 
salt, pepper and onion-juice. Put 
a tablespoonful of butter in the pan 
and as much hot water as will be 
required to moisten the hash; add 
the chopped meat and potatoes, 
mixing carefully, so as not to mash 
the potatoes; cover and cook 
slowly until a crust has formed 
on the bottom of the pan, then 
turn out on a hot dish, crust side 
up, and garnish with little chunks 
of butter and sprigs of parsley. 

* DUBLIN LAWYER * 

CUT cold roast or boiled mut- 
ton into half-inch cubes and 
cold boiled or baked potatoes 
in like manner. Put four table- 



102 



spoonfuls of butter into the blazer; 
when melted add two cupfuls of 
meat and one and one-half cupfuls 
of potatoes and mix thoroughly 
with the butter. Put in a cupful 
of cream, cover and let stand for 
five minutes; then set on hot 
water for five minutes more. Season 
with salt and one tablespoonful of 
freshly grated horseradish mixed 
with lemon-juice. 

* EPIGRAMS * 

PARBOIL a sweetbread, drain, 
place in a small mold, cover, 
and press with a weight. 
When ready to use cut in half-inch 
slices, roll alternately in fine cracker- 
crumbs and beaten egg. Put thin 
slices of bacon in the chafing-dish 
and when they are nicely browned 
put in the sweetbreads and cook 
until thoroughly done. 

* FRICANDELLES * 

HAVE the butcher chop very 
fine one-half pound each of 
pork and beef. To this add 
one medium-sized onion chopped 
fine, two slices of bread that have 
been soaked in cold water and 
squeezed dry in the hands, one egg 
and one-half saltspoonful each of 
pepper and salt. Mix all together 
thoroughly, shape into small cakes, 
dip in egg and cracker-crumbs and 
fry in hot olive-oil. 

103 



*> FRIZZLED BEEF * 

BUY a half-pound of smoked 
beef cut in thin shavings. 
Remove all stringy parts and 
pick the beef in small pieces. 
Put a tablespoonful of butter in the 
pan and when hot add the beef and 
cook five minutes, stirring con- 
stantly with a knife. Set the beef 
over hot-water pan and make the 
following sauce: Put in the pan 
a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour, stir quickly until well mixed; 
add gradually one cupful of milk 
and stir constantly until free of 
lumps and then put in a teaspoonful 
of horseradish drained of the vine- 
gar, one-half of a saltspoonful of 
sugar and dash of cayenne; cook 
slowly for ten minutes, add the 
beef, and serve. 



HAMBURG STEAKS 

FORM into small balls and 
flatten; sauter them in hot 
butter. Place them on a hot 
dish and add a tablespoonful of 
flour to the butter in the pan, and 
brown; add slowly a little soup 
stock and season with salt, pepper 
and Worcestershire sauce. With 
a spoon make a little depression in 
the top of each steak and put in a 
spoonful of the sauce. Garnish 
with watercress. 

104 



* KIPPERED KIDNEY * 

SKIN the kidneys and soak 
them in salted water for half 
an hour. Wipe dry and cut 
them open, very evenly, length- 
wise. Place a piece of butter in 
the chafing-dish and when melted 
lay in the kidneys. Cook them 
for ten minutes, turning occasion- 
ally. Sprinkle with salt and cay- 
enne, and pour over them two 
tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. 
Put on hot toast. 

* LA TOURAINE * 

CUT up in small pieces one 
cupful of cooked corned beef 
and three-quarters of a cupful 
of cooked potatoes. Put a table- 
spoonful of butter in the pan and 
add the beef and potatoes with a 
green pepper cut fine; mix well with 
the butter and add one cupful of 
rich cream. Serve on pieces of 
toast with sprigs of parsley on top. 

* LUNCHEON LIVER * 

COVER with boiling water thin 
slices of liver and let stand 
five minutes; drain, wipe, and 
remove the thin outside skin and 
veins. Put a tablespoonful each 
of butter, chopped parsley and 
chopped chives in the pan and 
brown. Put the slices of liver in 
this and cook well done; remove 
to a hot plate and to the gravy in 
the pan add a tablespoonful of flour 

105 



mixed smooth with a little stock, 
salt and pepper, and a half-glass 
of Madeira. Cook ten minutes 
and then pour over the liver. 

* MADEIRA GRAVY * 

CLEAN and separate chicken 
livers, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, dredge with flour and 
sauter in butter. Remove to a hot 
plate, and brown in the pan two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and two 
of flour; add gradually one cupful 
of brown stock and a half-cupful 
of Madeira wine. Reheat the livers 
in the sauce and pour over biscuits 
broken in half. 

* MARENGO * 

DIVIDE into bits lean veal and 
put in the pan with a little 
salt pork and an onion, both 
cut into small pieces. Shake them 
around in the pan and when a nice 
brown sprinkle with a little flour 
and mix well. Pour in a cupful of 
rich cream and a few mushroom 
buttons. Serve on a hot platter 
and garnish with squares of fried 
bread and slices of lemon. 

MILWAUKEE MUTTON 

PUT in the pan two table- 
spoonfuls each of butter and 
currant jelly, and when melted 
add a pound of mutton shaved 
from the leg; season rather highly 
with salt and pepper, add a table- 

106 



spoonful of French mustard and 
let it cook for five minutes, stirring 
constantly. Serve very hot. 

NEW ORLEANS 
* SAUSAGE > 

PRICK the skin of six small 
sausages. Put them in the 
saucepan with one-half can of 
tomatoes and a bruised clove of 
garlic. Season with salt and cay- 
enne, cover closely, and simmer 
for half an hour. 

* RECHAUFFE * 

CUT cold mutton into very 
neat, small pieces, and lay 
with a little butter in the hot 
pan. Add half a pint of stock, a 
little pepper, a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful each of dry mustard and 
curry-powder, and three large ta- 
blespoonfuls of currant jelly. When 
boiling, put in a glass of sherry. 
Take the slices out and lay them 
on hot toast, pour the boiling 
gravy over all, and serve instantly. 

SCRAMBLED 

* SWEETBREADS * 

BEAT four eggs slightly with 
a silver fork; add a half-tea- 
spoonful of salt and half as 
much pepper, one-half of a cupful 
of milk and one sweetbread par- 
boiled, and cut in dice. Put two 
tablespoonfuls of butter in the hot 

107 



chafing-dish, and when melted, 
pour in the mixture. Cook until 
of a creamy consistency, stirring 
and scraping from the bottom of 
the pan. 

TENDERLOIN STEAK 

A TENDERLOIN steak an 
inch and a half thick can be 
cooked to a nicety in the 
chafing-dish. Flood the dish first 
with olive-oil, and when boiling 
hot, put in the steak and cover it 
up. Cook three minutes on each 
side and season to suit. 

> TRIPE STEWED * 

CUT fresh honeycomb tripe in 
two-inch pieces and wipe as 
dry as possible. Put in the 
chafing-dish with a little butter, 
one small onion cut in thin shav- 
ings and a green pepper finely 
chopped. When nicely cooked, 
work in smooth one tablespoonful 
of flour and add one-half of a cup- 
ful of stock, one-quarter of a cup- 
ful of drained tomatoes and one 
fresh mushroom cut in slices. Add 
the tripe, season with pepper and 
salt and cook five minutes. 



108 



F 


O W 


L 


A 


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D 


G 


A M 


E 




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BONELESS CHICKEN 

TAKE a cold boiled chicken, 
skin and cut into small bits, 
as for salad; heat a coffee- 
cupful of cream and add to it one 
tablespoonful of flour, well mixed 
with a large tablespoonful of but- 
ter, and stir until thick; add one 
small onion, grated, the chicken 
and seasoning. Cook twenty min- 
utes and serve on hot toast. 

*- CANVASBACK * 

PUT a tablespoonful of butter 
in the chafing-dish, and when 
light brown lay in the breast 
of a canvasback duck; sauter first 
on one side, then on the other, 
until a golden brown. Season 
with salt and cayenne and serve 
with currant jelly. 

* CREOLE CHICKEN * 

STRAIN one can of tomatoes, 
adding salt, pepper, a small 
piece of butter, curry-powder 
and onion-juice. Put in chafing- 
dish and boil with one cup of rice 
for ten minutes; add the contents 
of a can of chicken cut in square 
bits, cook thoroughly and serve. 

* L'INDIENNE > 

MIX two teaspoonfuls of curry- 
powder with two of flour; 
cut up and fry a chicken 
in butter, with an onion and some 



in 



parsley; add the curry and flour 
and one and one-half cupfuls of 
clear stock and one cupful of grated 
cocoanut; wet with the juice of a 
lemon. Stir well and serve hot. 

* LUCKNOW CURRY * 

MELT a tablespoonful of 
butter and stir in a table- 
spoonful of flour; add a 
teacupful of chicken broth and 
one of cream; mix thoroughly un- 
til smooth, and season with salt 
and white pepper; cut a cold 
boiled fowl in bits and put in with 
a tablespoonful of curry-powder 
and the juice of half a lemon. 
After it is thoroughly heated lift 
from the fire and put over the hot- 
water pan and add the yolks of 
four eggs beaten, and stir until 
thick. 

MARYLAND TERRAPIN 

CHOP a chicken liver and 
three hard-boiled eggs rather 
coarse; to this add one quart 
of cold cooked chicken, cut in 
small pieces, and season with salt, 
pepper, and a little nutmeg; put 
three tablespoonfuls of butter in 
the chafing-dish; when melted stir 
in two tablespoonfuls of flour un- 
til smooth and frothy, and gradu- 
ally add one cupful of chicken 
stock; stir and cook for three min- 
utes, and then put in one cupful 
of cream, reserving four table- 



112 



spoonfuls; stir for a minute and 
then put in the chicken mixture 
and simmer for ten minutes; dur- 
ing this period beat well the yolks 
of two uncooked eggs and put the 
four tablespoonfuls of cream with 
them and pour into the chicken 
and stir for one minute. Remove 
from the flame and add four table- 
spoonfuls of sherry and one tea- 
spoonful of lemon-juice and serve 
at once. 

* MfeTROPOLE * 

PREPARE one cold boiled 
chicken the same as for salad, 
and add one can of mush- 
rooms; put two tablespoonfuls of 
butter in chafing-dish and work in 
one tablespoonful of flour; when 
smooth add a pint of milk, and 
boil up once before putting in the 
chicken and mushrooms; season 
with pepper and salt, and cover 
the top with rolled cracker and 
lumps of butter. Cook twenty 
minutes over a rather slow flame. 

PALERMO MACARONI 

MINCE an onion and fry in 
butter; add a little flour 
and half of a can of to- 
matoes; season with salt, pepper 
and a spoonful of sugar, and cook 
twenty minutes; strain and add 
one cupful each of cooked maca- 
roni, chopped ham, chicken cut 
in bits, and three cooked green 

113 



peppers, finely shredded and free 
from seeds. Beat the yolk of one 
egg in a half-cupful of hot milk 
and stir in well to thicken it and 
serve hot. 

* QUAIL *■ 

FRY whole in the blazer until 
nearly done; take them out 
and cut in halves. Make a 
rich gravy by working one table- 
spoonful of flour into two of 
melted butter and adding a little 
chopped onion and white wine. 
Return the quail to the gravy and 
cook until quite tender. 

* SPRING CHICKEN * 

A DAINTY and tender spring 
chicken can be split and 
cooked in a chafing-dish 
almost as well as it can be broiled. 
Flood the dish with best olive-oil, 
let it get piping hot, lay the split 
chicken in, inside down, and cover. 
Turn and brown on the other side 
and season with salt and pepper. 

* TURKEY HASH * 

PUT a half-pint of gravy in 
the saucepan with a little 
piece of butter rolled in flour, 
a teaspoonful of catsup, pepper 
and salt, and the peel of half a 
lemon cut fine. Let this boil up, 
and then put in the turkey, cut in 
little bits, and when thoroughly 

114 



hot break in four eggs on top and 
poach them. Slip into a hot plat- 
ter without breaking the eggs and 
serve immediately. 

> WILD RAGOUT > 

REMOVE the skin and bones 
of cold roast duck, and cut 
enough of the meat in mod- 
erate sized pieces to make about a 
pint. Mash the livers to a paste, 
and put in the pan with one table- 
spoonful of dry mustard, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne 
and two tablespoonfuls of lemon- 
juice; mix thoroughly and add 
two tablespoonfuls of butter and 
the same amount of water. Put 
in the cold duck and one gill of 
Madeira and stir until smoking 
hot. 

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EGGS 
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* BREAD OMELET > 

SOAK a cupful of stale bread- 
crumbs for fifteen minutes in 
a cupful of sweet cream; add 
the beaten yolks of four eggs, salt 
and pepper, and last fold in the 
beaten whites; put a big spoonful 
of butter in the chafing-dish, and 
when it is melted pour in the 
omelet and cook for six minutes. 
Slice a hard-boiled egg and put 
over the top just before taking 
from the flame. 

CONNECTICUT 
* CHOWDER * 

FRY quite brown four slices of 
salt pork; slice about six 
good-sized potatoes and lay 
over the pork; cover with water 
and boil until tender; then add 
three pints of milk, butter the size 
of an egg, salt and pepper. When 
the milk is at boiling point drop 
in the yolks of six eggs very care- 
fully, so as not to break them, and 
cook about five minutes, or until 
they are hard, and pour over Bos- 
ton crackers, split and buttered. 

* CURRIED EGGS * 

SLICE and fry two small 
onions; add two cupfuls of 
stock and two teaspoonfuls 
of curry-powder; thicken a half- 
pint of cream with a little flour, 
and stir in and cook until thick 
and smooth. Divide seven hard- 



119 



boiled eggs in half, put in the 
curry and simmer until heated 
through. 

* GRUYERE EGGS * 

MELT one-quarter of a pound 
of grated Gruyere cheese 
with a teaspoonful of but- 
ter; add one cupful of chicken 
broth, some chopped onion, pars- 
ley, nutmeg and salt. Stir until 
smooth and creamy and all well 
blended, and then put in four well- 
beaten eggs; stir for an instant 
and serve immediately on hot toast. 

* HAM OMELET > 

BEAT together seven eggs, the 
whites and yolks ; add four 
tablespoonfuls of milk and 
beat fast for one minute; season 
with pepper and salt; have ready 
a cupful of cold broiled ham, 
chopped very fine, stir it in the 
eggs and pour into the pan, in 
which there is a tablespoonful of 
butter melted. Shake briskly over 
the flame, slipping a cake-turner 
under the omelet to prevent 
sticking, and as soon as it is set 
double it over in the middle and 
turn into a hot dish by a dexter- 
ous inversion of the pan. 

* LIVINGSTON CLUB * 

BEAT well together twelve 
raw eggs and a half-pint of 
cream, adding salt and pep- 
per; put the mixture in the pan 

120 



well buttered, and scramble; then 
add a half-pint of well-cooked to- 
matoes and three truffles cut fine. 
Spread small squares of hot toast 
with pate de foie-gras, and pour 
the eggs over. Serve very hot. 

* PAR EXCELLENCE > 

PUT a tablespoonful of butter 
in the pan; break four eggs 
in a bowl; add pepper, salt 
and a tablespoonful of chopped 
parsley; stir until the eggs are 
well mixed, but do not beat; pour 
them in the hot butter and stir 
constantly with a fork till the eggs 
begin to set, gently tipping the pan 
to let the uncooked part run where 
it will be cooked through. With a 
bread-knife commence and roll the 
omelet before the eggs get too set. 

> POACHED EGGS > 

PLACE in the hot-water pan as 
many muffin-rings as the pan 
will hold; turn in enough 
boiling water to just cover the 
rings, and add a little salt. When 
the water boils break an egg into 
each ring; have ready even pieces 
of toast, cut into rounds, moisten 
them with hot water and spread 
generously with butter. Remove 
the eggs carefully with a flat skim- 
mer, and place one on each round 
of toast; lift the rings off and dust 
the yolk with pepper. 



> RUBY ROYAL * 

CUT one small onion very fine 
in a pint of tomatoes; sea- 
son highly with salt and cay- 
enne, add a big lump of butter 
and stew slowly for fifteen minutes. 
Strain and return to the pan. Break 
six eggs into the boiling tomato 
without breaking the yolk, and 
cook until the white is firmly set. 
Serve at once, placing one egg, 
with tomato sauce, on each slice 
of hot buttered toast. 

* RUM OMELET > 

MI X three eggs with two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
a small glass of Jamaica 
rum, and beat just enough to break 
the eggs. Melt two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter in the pan and turn 
the mixture in carefully and evenly. 
When the eggs are cooked slip a 
knife under and carefully roll the 
omelet to the center. Lift it to 
a hot dish, sprinkle with powdered 
sugar, pour rum around it, and 
when it is on the table touch a 
match to the rum. 

* SHIRRED EGGS * 

BREAK into a soup-plate six 
eggs, taking care to keep the 
yolks whole; put into the 
chafing-dish a tablespoonful of but- 
ter, when melted add the eggs and 
cover with sweet cream, a table- 



spoonful for each egg. Cook un- 
til the eggs are set, then sprinkle 
salt and pepper on top. 

* SPANISH OMELET * 

CHOP a very little garlic and 
fry in olive-oil; add one cup- 
ful of sliced mushrooms and 
one-half cupful of stewed tomatoes, 
pepper and salt. Spread this over 
a plain omelet just before folding 
over, and serve very hot. 

* STUFFED EGGS > 

HAVE ready one cupful of 
carefully boiled rice and six 
hard-boiled eggs ; remove 
the shells from the eggs, cut them 
into halves, lengthwise; take out 
the yolks and mash them; add a 
tablespoonful of melted butter and 
three sardines rubbed to a paste, a 
dash of cayenne and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt; mix thoroughly, 
form into balls and fill into the 
space in each white; form the rice 
into a mold in the center of a plat- 
ter, sink the eggs down in it, and 
stand the platter over hot-water 
pan. Rub together two round- 
ing tablespoonfuls of butter and 
two of flour; add a half-pint each 
of stock and milk, stir until boil- 
ing, season with salt and cayenne 
and strain over the eggs and rice. 
Sprinkle the top with chopped 
parsley and serve hot. 

123 



* TOMATO OMELET * 

SKIN two or three tomatoes, 
cut in slices, fry in butter and 
keep hot. Beat up some eggs 
as for omelet, season with salt 
and pepper, put butter in pan and 
turn in the eggs; when set, put a 
spoonful of the tomatoes in the 
center, fold the omelet from each 
side, and serve. 

13 1 

1 1 

1 



124 



CHEESE 
? 3 ¥ 



> BREAD SOUFFLE * 

SOAK two cupfuls of stale bread- 
crumbs in two of hot milk; 
add one cupful of grated 
cheese and beat thoroughly with 
egg-beater. Beat three eggs until 
light and add with seasoning. Put 
a tablespoonful of butter in the 
pan and cook one-half of the mix- 
ture at a time, as this makes two 
omelets. Cook more slowly than 
for plain omelet. When it is set 
it will be as light as souffle; fold 
over the edges and serve on the 
instant. 

CHEESE SANDWICH 

SLICE the bread very thin and 
cut in rounds with a large 
biscuit-cutter. Put a thick 
layer of grated cheese between the 
two forms, sprinkle with salt and 
a dash of cayenne and press the 
rounds well together. Fry a deli- 
cate brown on each side in hot 
olive-oil and serve very hot. 

> FONDUE > 

SELECT three large ripe toma- 
toes, skin them and cut into 
slices. Cook them until ten- 
der, and then add two ounces of 
grated Parmesan cheese and a 
generous piece of butter, salt and 
pepper. Beat up one egg and 
stir into the mixture just as it is 
taken from the fire. Serve very 
hot on buttered biscuits. 

127 



* GHERKIN JUCK * 

TAKE a pound of good Amer- 
ican cheese, wet it with a 
cupful of ale, put it in the 
pan over the fire and melt and 
work smooth and creamy by con- 
stant stirring; add a generous dash 
of cayenne and pour over hot 
toast. On the top of each piece lay 
a thin crisp slice of broiled bacon. 

* LYONNAISE * 

MELT two tablespoonfuls of 
butter and put in it one 
tablespoonful of onion 
chopped fine and fry until tender. 
Add one cupful of shaved cheese 
and stir until smooth and melted. 
Beat six eggs slightly and whip 
them in, season and pour imme- 
diately over toasted crackers. 

* OREGON CREAM * 

TOAST slices of bread nicely 
in squares and cut off the 
crust. Butter while hot and 
plunge them for an instant into a 
bowl of boiling milk; place them 
on a hot plate and keep warm. 
Put in the pan one-half cupful of 
rich milk and when it is boiling 
hot put in two cupfiils of grated 
cheese. Stir constantly until the 
cheese is melted; then add salt and 
cayenne and the beaten yolks of 
two eggs. Pour over the toast 
and serve instantly. 

128 



RELIABLE RAREBIT 

CUT one pound of cheese into 
small pieces, American and 
Cream mixed. Fill the hot- 
water pan half-full of boiling water, 
put the chafing-pan over this and 
into it put a tablespoonful of but- 
ter, half a teaspoonful of dry mus- 
tard, tablespoonful of Worcester- 
shire sauce, half a teaspoonful of 
tabasco and a quarter of a cupful 
of beer. When the butter melts 
put in the cheese and stir con- 
stantly; as it melts add beer, a little 
at a time, until it is thoroughly 
melted and smooth like thick 
cream. No cheese is exactly alike 
in the amount of liquid it requires, 
so beer is used to thin until the 
proper consistency is attained. 

* ROULETTES > 

MELT one-half cupful of 
grated cheese in the pan, set 
over boiling water, season 
with salt and Hungarian red pep- 
per; add a tablespoonful of ale 
and pour over thin rounds of but- 
tered toast. Poach four eggs and 
serve on top of the four pieces of 
toast. 

* WELSH RAREBIT * 

PLACE a tablespoonful of but- 
ter in the chafing-dish; add 
two pounds of good Eastern 
cheese chopped fine, a generous 

129 



pinch of salt, one-third of* a tea- 
spoonful of cayenne, four dashes 
of Worcestershire sauce and stir 
vigorously until melted. Then 
add a wine-glass of porter or ale 
and a teaspoonful of Colman's 
mustard and stir until it bubbles. 
Serve on hot toast. Make over 
hot-water pan. 



130 



SWEET 
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> CANAPE * 

SPLIT in two little squares of 
sponge cake and lay them in 
hot butter in the chafing-dish, 
and brown on both sides. Re- 
move them to a plate and spread 
each layer with canned berries or 
fruit of some kind. Turn the juice 
from the can into the chafing-dish; 
moisten a teaspoonful of arrowroot 
with cold water, stir it slowly into 
the hot juice until it is thick and 
clear, and then pour over the slices 
of spread cake. 

DEVILED ALMONDS 

FRY two ounces of blanched 
and shredded almonds in 
enough olive-oil to keep from 
burning, until well browned. Mix 
together one tablespoonful each of 
Chutney and Worcestershire sauce, 
two of chopped pickles, and a lit- 
tle salt and cayenne; pour over 
the nuts, and serve as soon as 
thoroughly heated. This is nice 
with oysters. 

FRENCH PANCAKE 

BEAT two eggs, whites and 
yolks separately; add one 
cupful of milk to the beaten 
yolks, and one teaspoonful of 
sugar, salt, and one-half of a cupful 
of flour. Beat until smooth, then 
put in one-half of a tablespoonful 
of olive-oil and the beaten whites. 
Grease the cutlet pan with a little 

133 



oil, heat and pour in enough of 
the mixture to cover the bottom; 
when brown, turn and brown the 
other side. Spread each cake with 
butter and jelly. Roll and serve 
at once. 

* FUDGE * 

PUT into the blazer two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, one cup- 
ful of dark brown sugar, half 
a cupful of milk, two cupfuls of 
New Orleans molasses and four 
squares of grated chocolate. Light 
the lamps and stir the mixture con- 
stantly, until it will form a rather 
hard ball when dropped into ice- 
water. Put out the light; add a 
teaspoonful of vanilla, pour into a 
buttered pan and check off in even 
squares while soft. 

* GERMAN TOAST * 

BEAT three eggs lightly, add a 
half-teaspoonful of salt, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
one cupful of milk; strain into a 
shallow dish, put six slices of stale 
bread in the mixture, and soak it 
until soft. Cook in the hot pan 
with plenty of olive-oil or butter; 
brown on one side, turn and brown 
the other side. 

* ORANGE OMELET * 

GRATE the rind from an or- 
ange. Beat the yolks of 
three eggs thoroughly and 
add three tablespoonfuls each of 

134 



powdered sugar and orange-juice, 
and the grated rind. Beat the 
whites stiff, stir them into the 
yolks, and cook like a plain omelet. 
Lay it on the serving-dish, sprinkle 
it thickly with powdered sugar and 
score it in diagonal lines with a 
clean, red-hot poker. 



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